SOURCE: lincoln ranger 250 voltage problem
Hi,
Check the current control resistor with an ohm meter. The center terminal should have a smooth rise or fall of resistance when measured to one end or the other of the resistor. If the resistor and the wiring to it are OK, check the shunt in the output it'll be by the "electrode" terminal. If both are OK you probably have a bad control board.
Regards,
Carl
SOURCE: LCD monitor shuts down every after 2-3 seconds
dustcore025, Need a little more info here. Do you know age of monitor? Was it or did it display a "perfect' image on it the day before? Is it under warranty? How far are you willing to go to try and repair this thing? Do you know how to "part" the snap together plastic back cover from the bezel, after removing the pedestal? This sounds to me like a Switch-mode-power-supply or Inverter problem that occurs when some Electrolytic Filter Capacitors get a little bit TIRED of being constantly subjected to high temperatures near heatsinks that are used to keep semiconductors within operating limits. You can determine how bad this may be if you can do a test and remember what happens. Here is what to do. Make sure PC is fully booted displaying WIN desktop or some other screen. Next, with someone to keep hitting the CTRL or SP bar key every 20-40 seconds while you reconnect both cables of your MM17 back to the PC video port and ac outlet. Now try to turn on the monitor and note exactly what you see and for how long. Did it have a sharp clear image, even for 1-2 seconds? did the screen go black? OK! Next thing is to shine a bright flashlight onto the screen 2 inches away from where you know there was something a few seconds ago. Try it at different angles and not if you see anything. get back to me with results of test. I'm louie12fix on fixya or lmistyrel @ aol.com BYE for now.
SOURCE: my lincoln ranger 250 no weld output
sounds like the transformer winddings which generate the amperage for the arc are breaking down
SOURCE: Ford f250 Truck 1987 460. Solenoid sticks once in
Most likely you need a new Ignition switch. The small "tickler" wires on your solenoid are staying on. You can disconnect the small wire from the Solenoid and then put a test light on it. Turn the Ignition to Start and see if the wire stays hot when you release the key.
Another problem you could have is the Starter has such a bad intermittent short in it, that it keeps the points welded together after the key is released from the Start position. You can get a starter Draw test done at some parts stores like Autozone or Oreillys to name a few, they do it free and on the truck.
Let me know the result please,
328 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×