SOURCE: chest freezer runs almost non-stop.
hi. thanks for the question.you said you could not set the thermostat any warmer. so no matter what you do. it is not changing a thing. -5 the block of ice on the back, is a sign of too cold & running to long. was it frosted up inside the freezer i would replace the cold control thanks the appliance doc
SOURCE: Defrost Drain clogged
Take a spray bottle with VERY hot water and spray it down the drain line
Testimonial: "Good advice. Wife called repairman before I could apply. Repairman did same thing, but with pressureized."
SOURCE: I get a E4 errror code.
The broken water tank flipper will directly cause the unit to not function and the E-4 message will appear on the display screen.
SOURCE: Brand new mpi 2200 heater...runs fine with front
Make sure the circulation fan is running. That is the one you can see on the back. Also look at the black grill. One side is open and one side will be blocked. You want the open side on your left if you are standing in front of the heater looking at it. Also look inside the heater and make sure nothing is blocking the air flow. Let me know what you find.
SOURCE: Kenmore Freezer 106.727581: The freezer ices
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video
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