My ice maker is pumping too much water into the mold. What component controls the amount of water flow?

As the harvest cycle (the ice maker fingers rotate to sweep the cubes out of the mold) comes near the end of the rotation, a switch in the ice maker activates to send power to the water valve (located under the refrigerator where the house water supply line connects) and allows perhaps 4 cc of water to flow up a 1/4" plastic line to a fitting on the back of the refrigerator that is aligned with the ice maker inside which then flows into the maker mold. That process refills the ice maker mold and everything shuts off to freeze this water and then initiate another harvest cycle when the entire process is repeated. If there is no water, then there is no ice. Focus on why the water isn't flowing all the way to the ice maker. Look for an ice blockage in the tubing that comes from the back, inside wall of the freezer to the ice maker, or a bad valve. It is rare, but the switch inside the ice maker could be bad. The water valve or a blocked water line are most likely the culprits. Another trick is to pour water into the ice maker mold, wait several hours and see if that freezes and ejects into the pan. If so the ice maker is working, it just has no water to freeze.

Okay, here's a bunch of info in the order I would troubleshoot since the one year warranty expired.

1) The water filter might be clogged. Try just removing it to see if it makes ice. If it does change the water filter.

2) The water inlet valve might (still) be defective. The water inlet valve is an electro-mechanical valve. The coil can show good for continuity and still not let the water thru although you didn't say if it worked when he left. if recently replaced it should be under his warranty.

3) The water pressure in the house might be too low. The water inlet valve which supplies water to the ice maker is designed to work with a minimum of 20 psi of water pressure.

4) The door switch might be defective. When the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice maker and dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
5) It could be that the ice maker assembly itself is defective. The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for the ice maker to cycle properly. There are several components in the control module of the ice maker that can fail and most are not sold separately. Also, ice makers have a relatively short lifespan and so it might not be worth fixing. If other, simpler parts like the water inlet valve or shut off arm have been ruled out, and the only thing left is the ice maker itself, replace it as a unit. Not as expensive as you may think...Under $100

6) The icemaker module at the front might also be defective. The module has a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms around to push the ice cubes out when the ice maker thermostat closes. It also has contacts in it for the mold heater and water inlet valve. The motor or contacts of the module can fail. Usually there are test points in the module that a service person can use to determine if there is a problem with it or one of the related ice maker components.

7) The icemaker mold thermostat might be defective. Inside the control module of the ice maker is a thermostat which monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature the ice maker starts a harvest cycle by ejecting the ice cubes and refilling with water. If the mold thermostat is defective the ice maker doesn't advance. The thermostat can be checked for continuity. Replace it as needed.The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for optimum performance.

Ice dispenser doesn't work

1. Dispenser control board

If the ice dispenser is not functioning at all the most likely cause is going to be the dispenser control board. The dispenser control board governs the major portion of the systematic functions of the dispenser and is less likely to be the issue if only certain components are malfunctioning. If the dispenser control board is at fault, it will need to be replaced.

1. Water inlet valve & low water pressure from house supply

If the ice dispenser on your refrigerator is not working properly, one of the first things to consider as an issue is the water pressure to your appliance. The ice dispenser cannot properly function with a psi less than 20. If psi is appropriate, proceed to replace the water inlet valve to correct the issue. You may also be dealing with low household water pressure. This low flow can be examined by using a water pressure test gauge. Once the household water pressure is resolved, you can double check your refrigerator connection to ensure it is now flowing properly and that the ice dispenser is functioning.

1. Water tube in door is frozen

If the ice dispenser is not working on your refrigerator, the issue could be a frozen water supply tube located in the door. Although this may be a tricky problem to locate, the first thing to do is find a connection point in the tube. After this has been found, attempt to blow air through the tube. If the air flows freely through the tube, it is not frozen and this is not the issue. If it does not, the tube is frozen and needs to be removed to thaw out. As it thaws, attempt to ascertain why it froze and correct the positioning of the tubing to prevent the issue from occurring again in the future.

1. Dispenser switch

If the refrigerator ice dispenser is not working properly you could be dealing with a defective dispenser switch. Activated by the dispenser actuator, the switches are responsible for numerous actions including ice cube disbursement, type of ice, and water controls. The switch can be tested using an ohm meter and should be replaced if it does not reveal continuity.

1. Door switch

If the refrigerator ice dispenser is not working, the functionality of the door switch can be inspected. This switch is responsible for turning on the light in the freezer and simultaneously turning off the ice dispenser when the freezer door is opened. If this switch malfunctions, it will show no continuity on the ohm meter and will require replacement.
Ice maker not functioning or producing ice cubes

1. Check connections

Check all hose connections to ensure that water is being transmitted through your appliance and there is no frost build up.

1. Feeler arm

Double check to make sure your feeler arm is not stuck or that ice cubes are not blocking the feeler arm's motion to produce more ice.

1. Ice maker heater

The heater may be stuck on. The heater comes on for 1-2 minutes to break cubes free from mold. If the heater stays on too long ,the ice maker will get hot and stop making ice. Carefully feel around the ice maker mold; if it is hot to the touch, the heater is on. This indicates that the ice maker is jammed, and it is better to replace ice maker than to try and repair it.

1. Water inlet valve

The water valve supplying the ice maker is a key component of the ice-making system. When the ice maker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. When this part is not operating correctly, a repair/replacement part may be needed. Refrigerator Repair Help Troubleshooting and Parts

The only 2 components that deal with ice is the ice maker and the water valve. Nothing else controls the ice maker it is it's own boss. An ice mold thermostat mounted inside the brains is what starts the harvest process when the mold gets to below 28 degrees. At the end of the cycle before settling in for another batch the ice maker turns on the water works for 7.5 seconds to fill the mold. SO you either have a bad ice maker or a bad water valve. I would get a water valve first and if the that don't do it then get another ice maker. One other thing that could halt ice production is cob webs and lint blocking the kick plate and condenser causing air restrictions. I have a manual, a video, and more HERE

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If your ice maker was leaking before and after the valve replacement, it is likely the ice maker that is at fault. The ice maker energizes the water solenoid, its not a pump, which then opens to allow the pressurized water flow up to the ice maker. If the valve solenoid has been replaced, the culprit is likely the ice maker itself. The valve should only be open for about 7-9 seconds, but if the ice maker motor is slow, or if there is some other malfunction with the ice maker, it will energize the valve for too long, causing it to then overflow. It could also be a hairline crack in the ice maker mold that is causing it to leak.

Fill ice maker with tap water and let freeze. If ice dumps and water does not refill tray then the water control valve is defective. If ice remains in ice maker then ice maker is the problem.

I think Amana still uses the Whirlpool made ice maker. It consits of a mold, a paddel to remove the ice, a motor to drive the paddel and a cam. The electrical part consists of mold, thermostate or sensor ( use to be thermo-disc), micro switches, 1 to hold the unit running 2nd to alow water to flow at a certain time and a mold heater. Sequence of operation: Thermostate senses mold is cold, activates motor to turn paddels and cam. As cam turns it depresses a micro switch to hold motor running. Motor cam and paddel turn, mold heater is also turned on. As mold warms the paddels scoup out the ice. Contunes to turn until a spot on the cam activates another micro switch to allow water in. Motor continues, as cam reaches a spot it releases the micro switch for water andthen the switch holding the motor on and unit shuts off ready to do it again.

OK the ice maker is the boss. It calls for water. Nothing else in the ice box controls the ice maker water but the ice maker itself. How? Fancier models use capacitance of ice mold to correctly fill the ice mold. On board intel monitors the temp of the ice mold by sending power through it and checking for differences in capacitance in the mold. When it hits the sweet spot it monitors the temp till it temps inside the mold determine ice is there and kicks in the harvest cycle. Older styles simply put a measured amount of water into the ice mold at the end of each harvest cycle. You gotta first run a water line to the water valve and then run a line from the water valve up to the Ice Maker fill spout behind the ice box. Nothing to it.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi
Many top-freezer ice makers have very similar ice makers that are pretty easy to diagnose. Side by side refrigerators have a variety of ice makers so I’ll start with the more common top freezer units. If yours makes crescent shaped ice cubes this will probably be relevant to your unit.
These ice makers have a metal wire bail or wand that senses if the ice level is too high. This sensor stops the ice maker from making ice that would overflow the catch bin. Check to make sure this sensor isn’t obstructed or locked at the far end of its travel. In normal operation the sensor wand should be resting against the ice maker. As it begins a cycle the wand sweeps across the catch bin and will be stopped if ice has risen too high. The same wand can be locked in a position at the far end of its travel to disable the ice maker. This is the most common cause of no ice. This may be what you meant by "made sure the tray was set right and arm was done"
If you have a different type of ice maker just spend a few minutes watching it operate or examine the non-operating unit. If you have a neighbor with a similar unit take a look at theirs. Many have a front cover that easily pops off giving access to the internal works. Listen as you watch to hear solenoid valves open, water flow, etc.
Make sure you look for any other interlock switches that would stop ice making if the tray were removed, the door was opened, etc.
You’ve already checked the water line, I’ll assume you disconnected it and tested for water flow or it was a translucent line and that you saw water in it. While you could do further tests on the water inlet valve, it’s probably easier just to verify that water is making it into the ice mold. If no water or ice is in the mold then you need to check the inlet valve or check the timer’s water switch. If there’s water or ice in the mold then your water supply is working and we need to look elsewhere. If there’s ice in the mold the most likely cause is the heater or ejector. If there's water it could be several things from the freezer temperature to the heater switch.
It's easier to figure out the problem if you have a simplified idea of how the ice making process works. An electromechanical timer controls the sequence of events for the entire process and acitivates valves and switches at the proper stage of the process. An ice mold receives water through an inlet valve. The mold is usually cooled just by the freezer air and relies on it's mass to retain the cold. Once the water has been in the mold for the correct time the cubes are given a brief shot of heat from a heating element in the mold. This loosens things up so a mechanical ejector can push the cubes from the mold. More water is added and the process continues.
please chek this link,for further help..
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/diagicemaker.php

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it over filling or it leaking from the mold i never seen thi model over filled mold when i see wtr in bin is usually the mold that is leaking you can check with a mirror or remove to inspect is texture is peeling off repl entire ice maker if is ok then repl wtr valve is not closing when it has filled the mold you only need 4oz of wtr

the first problem is solved by reducing the amount of water that pours into the ice tray. the ice maker should have an adjustment for this. pry off the cover and look for a screw adjustment. they usually adjust volume by cw is more and ccw is less water. the last problem "melting ice" is related to the first. one way that I know how these work is a complete cycle time adjustment. the final step of dispensing is to turn on a low wattage heater to help pop the cubes out. now if the timer is running too slow, not only does too much water come in, but the heater is turned on for too long and causing "melting ice". Imagine a clock running with various events triggered by the clock's rotating switch that turns on certain components at the proper time and leaves them on for a finite time. your clock may be too slow.