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BENJAMIN GIERACH Posted on Mar 22, 2019
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SE-3000 Schumaker charger that would blow 20 amp circuit breaker in wall breaker box repeatedly and loudly... It has a fair amount of dust inside, somewhat scared to plug it in again.

Opened the unit up to see if one part or wire etc. would be obviously burned or damaged. found nothing but a cost of dust on everything. Probably 10 years old but always worked otherwise

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Lawrence Oravetz

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  • Master 10,558 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 23, 2019
Lawrence Oravetz
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I'm thinking that the rectifier inside the charger has a dead short or a winding of the transformer has developed a short. Either way, it's time for a new charger.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 183 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2007

SOURCE: Washer Tripping 20 Amp Breaker

probably a faulty heater.

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douglas smith

  • 1462 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 25, 2008

SOURCE: Neither lights nor fans work

don't know model but they are all much the same.
there will be a pcb behind the control buttons and you will find some of the track burnt out causedd by the bulb blowing. do a soldered wire link across the burnt section of the track

k9yjy

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 11, 2008

SOURCE: JMC7000ADW Blows circuit breaker

I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions

VtToolMan

Mark

  • 704 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 06, 2009

SOURCE: RV Air Conditioner Keeps Tripping Circuit Breaker & Compressor

It sounds like the unit was miswired at the factory, since when the A/C is "off" at the thermostat, there should be no calls for cooling or for the fan to run.

You also stated the most puzzling issue, with the breaker turned "off" the same thing happens. This shouldn't happen at all, when the power breaker is turned off, there should be no power being supplied to the unit and it shouldn't be able to do anything. Very strange indeed, but likely a major error done when the RV was manufactured, or some wiring in the loom has somehow become shorted and is supplying power from another breaker/source.

I think a call to the manufacturer is in order since there is no easy solution aside from possibly rewiring the A/C circuit.

Not sure when your RV was made, but definately time to call the manufacturer and break out the wiring schematic in an attempt to isolate and resolve the problem.

Hope you find this helpful and best regards!

Anonymous

  • 1515 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 07, 2009

SOURCE: I have 60 amp circuit breaker on my electrical a/c

You're unit is a 31/2 ton according to the numbers.Normally, breakers will only be in a half way posistion when tripped. Yes, under most conditions, the fuse will blow before the breaker trips. I have seen this many times, the breaker may be weak, burned, loose wires and so tighten wires, check the condition of the breaker.It sounds like the breaker even though it is 60 amps, is the problem and you should replace it with out hesitating. This will solve you're problem. When you pull the breaker out, look at the metal clips that snap in on the buss bar to see if they have been overheating.And the buss bar its self. You will know. I am sure this will take care of you're problem. Good Luck,
Shastalaker7

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1answer

Have a Simpson evolution 807 wall oven. What fuse amps do I need as it keeps tripping the 20 amp circuit .

Check the data. If it should have a 20 amp fuse and it blows or trips a circuit breaker you probably have a faulty element. Try disconnecting each element in turn,
0helpful
1answer

I turn on power button. Short time later 20 amp breaker trips. I can reset breaker and do a load of wash. Must repeat for each load. I replaced receptacle and 20 amp breaker. Same results

Please do not do another load of wash until this problem is fixed, or you may find yourself with a house/apartment fire!
I am thinking your motor (most likely) or the controls (least) have a short, and are causing your problem.
Oh, yes.
Take a really good look at the circuit breaker box inside, because a broken or loose ground wire ( there are two) can also cause this problem.
One ground wire should be white, one should be bare.
Each should be securely screwed into the lugs of the grounded section of the circuit breaker box.
God bless your efforts.
0helpful
2answers

WHERE IS THE CIRCUIT BREAKER FOR THE MICROWAVE AND THE WALL OUTLETS

Good morning Richard.

The location of the circuit breaker will depend on the house, or building that you're in. Generally, they will be all together, often in a stairwell or a garage/basement wall that won't be obstructed. If the electrician followed code, the breakers should have labels on the inside of the breaker panel door, telling you which breaker or breakers service the kitchen. Often, if the microwave is an installed type, it'll have it's own 15 or 20 amp breaker.

Good Luck!
0helpful
1answer

Can I install a junction box before my water heater junction box?

Junction box is fine.
Must be accessible and not hidden inside wall.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

43 feet is not over 100 feet, so wire size can stay same.
Recommend 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire for 4500 watt water heater.
If circuit has 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire, recommend 3800 watt elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

0helpful
1answer

What to do if 30 amp fuse keeps blowing in main breaker box

A 30 amp circuit breaker or fuse is NOT a typical size used for the protection of convenience outlets & general lighting circuits, especially in a residential setting. In fact the National Electrical Code (NEC) prohibits anything larger than a 20 amp breaker to protect a #12 copper wire and and a 15 amp breaker to protect a #14 copper wire. These are the size wires used to supply nearly all outlet and lighting loads in a residence.

It's not clear to me from your question if this 30 amp breaker is a double pole type that is providing power to a second, smaller circuit breaker panel and these outlets are fed from it. This would be in line with what the NEC would allow and what I suspect is the situation. I'm only going to get into this a minimal amount as more information is needed for me to be able talk intelligently about it.

I would shut off the loads that are connected to the 30 amp breaker. If that is a panel, I would shut off all the circuit breakers in it, then turn onn the 30 amp breaker. If it trips, then there is a problem between the 30 amp breaker and the panel. You may have connected line cables to ground or neutral - and vice-versa.

Can you please explain in as much detail as possible what is connected to the 30 amp breaker? Is it a single pole (120 volts) or double pole (240 volts) circuit? What size wires are connect to the breaker terminal(s) What type of cable is connected to it? How many wires are in the cable assembly or pipes? What is the size of wires? If they feeds a second, smaller breaker panel, where do the wires terminate - into lugs on the top or bottom of the panel or terminals of a circuit breaker? What happened or changed to cause this circuit breaker to start tripping? Is this part of a new installation - and if so, was the wiring done by an electrician? Was the work inspected?

Please try to answer as many questions as possible. The more information you can provide will help me get you the best answer.
4helpful
1answer

When I plug the battery in for charging, the charge light does not come on. only the power light on the charger

There are several solutions to this problem which I have seen twice in my technical career.
You indicated that the power light on the charger comes on which indicates it is plugged into a working AC wall outlet. Check to make sure the power switch of the charger is turned on. Make sure that the round charger plug is plugged all the way into the battery charger receptacle on the battery box.
Next, check the on-board fuse AND the circuit breaker. I have had this little 5 Amp automotive style fuse burn out on several go go's and the charger does not work. Pull back the cover over the charger port and look for the fuse in its center slot. With a good set of fingernails it can be pulled straight out and inspected. Use fine needle nose pliers if necessary. I am assuming the go go runs and the push-button for the 15 Amp circuit breaker is pushed in. If it is out and the go go is not running reset the breaker by pushing the white button in. There is a clear rubber boot over the button. In my experience, the 5 amp auto fuse is your most likely problem. By holding it up to the light you can see if the fuse wire inside is burnt causing an open circuit. Most auto and hardware stores have this fuse in stock. Bring the old one to the store for comparison. It is a 5 Amp ATO fuse.
The question my clients often ask is what caused the charger circuit to overheat and the fuse to blow? The simple answer is that the two 12 Amp hour batteries in the go go are probably old and weak. This causes the charger to work too hard and the circuit to overheat and the fuse to blow. These small batteries have a short life span of between 6 months and 1 year depending on type. I recommend the AGM (advanced glass mat) batteries for longevity. Also make sure the charger being used on the chair is the 2 Amp small charger that came with the chair (There is a label on the charger to verify this). A larger charger will burn the batteries(shortening their life) and burn out the 5 Amp on-board fuse. Hope this helps.
0helpful
1answer

Need troubleshooting guide. Unit blows breakers when plugged in.

First thing I'd do is see what other units are on the same circuit breaker. The device draws 7.5 amps, and if you've got other electrical devices plugged into the same circuit, you could easily be overloading a 20 amp breaker. You may have at least a half-dozen other wall plugs hooked to that same circuit breaker.
0helpful
1answer

Husky compressor blows house breaker when turned on, unit is 5 years old. doesn't matter what outlet I plug into

Is your unloader dumping properly? This is the device that allows the head pressure to bleed off after stopping to make the restart easier. Is this device rated at 15 amps or 20? Have you tried a 20 amp circuit?

Do not - repeat - Do not change the breakers to oversome this difficulty. The breakers are in place to protect the wire in your home. Normally, a 15 amp circuit will have #14 wire. #14 wire cannot (and will not, for very long), carry 20 amps without melting or burning. 20 amp breaker protects #12 wire; 30 amps protects #10 wire.

If you continue to have this problem, you may want to have your compressor looked at by a professional electrician.

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0helpful
1answer

What is blue wire on ge built in oven for

The blue wire goes to a seperate 15 Amp circuit breaker or fuse.
This breaker should be powered by the L1 (black) supply feed in the breaker box. The circuit supplies power to the display and control buttons. The red and black wires go to a double ganged 20 Amp breaker. Check inside the oven back cover for a wiring diagram.
2helpful
1answer

Refrigerator cools as normal. Trips 15 AMP circuit breaker.

a full size refrige has to be on a 20 amp circuit, a 15 amp is just not big enough.. you should also know that this circuit has to be on a 12-2 gauge wire.. I also highly recommend installing a 20 amp HD receptacle
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