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There is no reset button. UNPLUG THE MIXER Remove the back cover and look for a broken wire, commonly one of the bottom two on either side. If none found you will need to use a multi meter and test circuits. If the machine has done a fair amount of work then check your carbon brushes, one under each black round side cap. Brushes are keyed on one corner, the motor will not run if you put one in the wrong way, you can look in the hole with a torch to see which corner is blocked.
Check for broken wire under back cover. Check operation of switch contacts on black speed control plate. Check carbon brushed under black screw caps on the sides. The brushes are keyed, they only work one way.
I had the same problem with the two black bolts on the side of the kitchenaid mixer. When I removed them, the mixer stopped working. The solution was to replace them in exactly the same way - meaning there is only one way that the square black pegs at the end of the springs go in. If they are turned 90 degrees or more, they will not work. Notice that one corner of the square pegs is cut at an angle. If you look carefully in the hole from which they came(with a flashlight), you can see that one corner has a small intrusion. Align the cut off corner of the plug with the intrusion in the slot, and it should work fine. If this is confusion, just keep rotating the plug until it's in correctly.
I normally CAREFULLY drill a small hole thru the centre of the brush and get it out with a hooked probe. The brass square sleeve that the brush goes into can slide out with the brush. Make sure that doesn't happen because if it does you'll be splitting the cases to get the brush holder wire back where it belongs.
Hi MARYP24.I hope you’re having better summer in Oz than we’re having a winter here in the States… I’m still digging out from the 30 inches of snow we got last Fri/Sat... and we’re expecting another foot or more on Wednesday, but I digress. So you want to purchase two parts; a Lever Latch (the black button that helps lift the head of the mixer) and the Black Thumb screw (black button screw that is at the top which helps screw attachments). It would be helpful to have the Part List manual as a reference. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home. Having the Parts List on hand will also be helpful as you will have to disassemble and reassemble your mixer to replace the Lever Latch. The Thumb Screw is pretty simple to ‘install’. Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> and enter the 6 character model number, KSM150 and select one the files listed for your model that appears under Parts List (61): KSM150PSWH0.pdf (773.44 KB) and save that file to your PC. Turn to Pg. 5, titled: Base And Pedestal Unit, and locate Illus. No. 17, Black Lever Latch (Part No. 9709280) then turn to page 6 & 7, titled: Case, Gearing and Planetary Unit, and locate Illus. No. 3, Black Thumb Screw (Part No. 9709194).These are the two parts you want to reorder along with their respective part numbers. Here are four potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com. Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping. The vendors I’ve listed are located in the U.S. but you might be able to find vendors in Australia with the part numbers. KA mixers fall under the Whirlpool corporation, so you might do an online search for Whirlpool parts vendors in Australia before trying Stateside vendors. Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble, determine what’s wrong, order the correct parts and reassemble your mixer. Good luck. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA If this solution has helped you, please rate it, thanks! – hslincoln
You can remove the handle-back by gently prying the rear clips down and away. But the problem is the power boost button; it has a fork that goes down the left side and snaps over a micro-switch. You need to get that off since there is not room for all 3 buttons (eject, variable speed, and boost) to slide through the handle. A small probe inserted from the top and pushing on the left side to the rear might do it. Or just pry the boost switch upwards; that's how I got mine apart. My problem was the boost microswitch was bad and provided a poor connection. As a result, the beater only ran intermittently on regular switch positions. I solved it by bypassing the boost micro switch. The beater now only runs on the regular speeds but that's fine by me.
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