Which wire to unhook oven lock - Ovens

Basically you unplug the oven and remove the back, you should see two wires connected to the elements where they come through the oven wall in the back. Unhook those wires. The elements are held in place with nuts on the portions that poke through, remove the nuts and pull the element out through the front, and install the new one. Note that if you break one of the connections on the wires to the heating element, they can be a real chore to repair because they are high heat connections.

The F9 means Lock switch. Check wiring to door lock switch (the wire harness may be connected wrong). Check for stuck lock switch. You can check for loose or overheated wire connection.

the oven lock is controlled by a microswitch. it is not working so you have to go in and manually unlockl it. take top front panel off and look for 2 wires that are going to to lock jump these wire and it will lock
look at a diagram to do this on the web

First step: Kill power at breaker.
Second Step: Verfiy power is not on. No lights work, no heat, no sign of any power.
Third step: Check power again.

Now, it is helpful to place a small table in front of the unit, at close to the same height as the opening in the wall. This way, when you get the unit out, you can set it somewhere while you unhook the wires.

When yu open the door, there should be screws along the edge that hold the unit to the wall. Remove these.There could be some along the top & bottom, and you may have to remove a piece of trim to locate these. Mine just had screws on the side.

You may find it easier to remove the door from the front of the unit. The door is usually very heavy, so be ready to catch it, and also, this will make the main unit in the wall lighter to handle.With the door off, you can also sometimes get a better grip.

Pull the unit out, set it on the table described earlier.

Now the dangerous part,
Reach behind and unhook the wires. Probably used wire nuts. Be sure to cap off the bare wires from the wall so there is no danger of shock or shorts if someone were to turn the power back on.

Now you should have a big hole in the wall.

Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

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The lock motor may have failed. On many freestanding stoves the lock motor is located in the right rear (looking from the front) with a long rod connected to the lock. remove the motor and unhook the rod from the motor cam.

The lock motor may have failed. On many freestanding stoves the lock motor is located in the right rear (looking from the front) with a long rod connected to the lock. remove the motor and unhook the rod from the motor cam. If it is a built-in over, sometimes bending a coat hanger into a hook and sliding from the right side into the lock you can unlock the door.

Door lock motor has probably failed.....Self clean on many
ovens can be a self destruct mode. Door latch motors, sensor
probes and even the electronic controls can be destroyed by
this operation. On many freestanding stoves the lock motor is located in the right rear (looking from the front) with a long rod connected to the lock. remove the motor and unhook the rod from the motor cam. Sometimes bending a coat hangar into a hook and sliding from the right side into the lock you can unlock the door.

Door lock motor has probably failed.....Self clean on many
ovens can be a self destruct mode. Door latch motors, sensor
probes and even the electronic controls can be destroyed by
this operation. On many freestanding stoves the lock motor is located in the right rear (looking from the front) with a long rod connected to the lock. remove the motor and unhook the rod from the motor cam. Sometimes bending a coat hangar into a hook and sliding from the right side into the lock you can unlock the door.

On many freestanding stoves the lock motor is located in the right rear (looking from the front) with a long rod connected to the lock. remove the motor and unhook the rod from the motor cam. If it is a built-in over, sometimes bending a coat hangar into a hook and sliding from the right side into the lock you can unlock the door.