The display on my ice maker is not responding, and the the 3rd bar up on the freezer temperature indicator is flashing. I've tried unplugging it. I've tried unlocking the panel.

Ice Maker (Flex Tray Fresh Food Compartment)
The Ice Maker must be turned on before entering the
Service Mode. Check the 'ice off' indicator on the User
Interface to verify that the ice maker is in on.
Diagnostic Service Mode Activation
Express-Select ™
To activate the Ice Maker Service Diagnostic Mode,
press and hold fresh food and freezer up (?)
simultaneously for up to ten (10) seconds.
Pro-Select ™
To activate the Ice Maker Service Diagnostic Mode, press
and hold 'options' and 'power on-off' simultaneously for
up to ten (10) seconds.
Activation of Ice Maker Service Diagnostic Mode
automatically turns off all Ice Maker Control PCBA
outputs. The compressor runs at fixed speed of 4500
rpm and the condenser fan turns on until Service Mode
is deactivated. The damper is closed and the fresh food
and freezer lights are enabled as well as the alarm audio.
Defrost of the main system is not allowed.
Deactivation
Express-Select ™
To exit service mode, press and hold fresh food (?) for
up to 10 seconds.
Pro-Select ™
To exit service mode, press and hold the (+) key for up
to 10 seconds.
Service mode is also automatically deactivated after 5
minutes of no key entries (that includes Communication
Lost). All outputs are turned Off. Previously selected
main system and ice maker operational modes are
restored.
Testing
To actuate an ice maker load of the selected test step
(turn on or off), use 'power on-off' on the user interface.
To step to the next ice maker sequential test, press fresh
food (?) or '+' on the LCD screen. To step back to the
previous ice maker sequential test, press fresh food (?)
or '-' on the LCD screen. The selected test number will
be displayed on the fresh food display.
After pushing 'power on-off' to start automatic test
or turn on the load, the ice maker control will display
the test result on the freezer two digit display. When
waiting for the test to be automatically performed and
the result displayed, the test number (test ID) will flash
on/off. After the automatic test is completed the test
result will be displayed as "P" - pass, or "F" - Fail.
For an interactive test, the technician manually activates
the load using 'power on-off' and physically verifies the
system response. Pressing 'power on-off' again turns
the load off. The freezer display shows the current or
expected state of the load. During the load transition
the fresh food display flashes the test ID. After the last
test step in the ice maker test sequence is completed,
the next advancing action will scroll back around to the
first ice maker test. Stepping back from the first test, will
scroll the test sequence backwards to the last test in the
sequence.
Note: The only test that the test number will flash during
the test is the bail arm test.
Note: If you advance to another test before the present
test is completed the ice maker will continue to run until
the tray reaches the home position before the next test
will start.
Service Diagnostic Mode Test
Sequence
Test 52C: Ice maker Thermistor Test.
The current Thermistor temperature is displayed on
Freezer display when the test is started. It will show the
temperature at the ice maker if the thermistor is good.
A "OP" will be displayed for open and "SH" for in short
circuit condition of the ice maker thermistor.
Test 55C: Water Valve Test
NOTE: Prior to initiating this test, verify that the ice tray
is empty. If not, empty the ice tray to prevent water
from overflowing into the ice bucket. To empty the ice
tray, remove the ice bin, place catch pan under the ice
tray and initiate test 63C. The tray will twist and empty.
Touch 'power on-off' to start the test. The lower control
board will turn on the green and brown water solenoid
valves for a duration of 4.6 seconds if set for small cubes,
5.8 seconds if set for medium cubes or 7.0 seconds if set
for large cubes. Additional 'power on-off' activations are
ignored. If you want to re-run the test you will need to
advance to another test and then go back after you drain
the water out of th

First, try unplugging the refrigerator for 5 minutes and then plug it back in. If the problem persists, you will need to replace the dispenser control module.

I have a Samsung RF265AABP model. I had the same problem, with the right 8 on refrigerator temperature flashing (top bar only on 7 segment display). The set buttons would not change the display either. The refrigerator and freezer both were about the right temperature (41F and -3F).

The problem was a broken temperature sensor wire on the ice maker. The sensor assembly often gets snagged on the ice tray or scoop or something and falls down, making it more likely to snag, and prevents the ice maker from cycling when frozen.

I fabricated a metal bracket to hold the temperature sensor assembly in place, and used a small tie wrap to hold the wire to the bracket, up and out of the way after soldering the broken wire of course.
If you have a volt meter you can do some diagnostics. Remove the cover from the back of the refrigerator to access the control board. Measure the voltages on the power supply, marked +12V and +5V
(yel and red, blk common). If the display reads 88 88 then the power supply is probably fine. Measure the voltages on the sensor connector CN30 at the bottom of the main control board (larger one). The gry wire on the left is common, and you should read approximately the following on the other wires starting on the left:
WHT 2.63 may depend on Pantry temp setting fresh or cold
BLU 3.59 R-DEF sensor refrigerator defrost I assume
WHT 2.55 R sensor, refrigerator temperature I assume
ORG 4.06 F-Def sensor, freezer defrost I assume
RED 3.54 F sensor freezer temperature, may depend on whether ice is frozen or still water in ice maker.
When the ice maker wire was broken, the readings on ORG and RED were 4.30 and 4.05 volts so I assume high readings above 4 volts might indicate a sensor open condition.


Control board access panel removed



Temperature sensor connector CN30

I have a Samsung RF265AABP model. I had the same problem, with the right 8 on refrigerator temperature flashing (top bar only on 7 segment display). The set buttons would not change the display either. The refrigerator and freezer both were about the right temperature (41F and -3F).

The problem was a broken temperature sensor wire on the ice maker. The sensor assembly often gets snagged on the ice tray or scoop or something and falls down, making it more likely to snag, and prevents the ice maker from cycling when frozen.

I fabricated a metal bracket to hold the temperature sensor assembly in place, and used a small tie wrap to hold the wire to the bracket, up and out of the way after soldering the broken wire of course.
If you have a volt meter you can do some diagnostics. Remove the cover from the back of the refrigerator to access the control board. Measure the voltages on the power supply, marked +12V and +5V
(yel and red, blk common). If the display reads 88 88 then the power supply is probably fine. Measure the voltages on the sensor connector CN30 at the bottom of the main control board (larger one). The gry wire on the left is common, and you should read approximately the following on the other wires starting on the left:
WHT 2.63 may depend on Pantry temp setting fresh or cold
BLU 3.59 R-DEF sensor refrigerator defrost I assume
WHT 2.55 R sensor, refrigerator temperature I assume
ORG 4.06 F-Def sensor, freezer defrost I assume
RED 3.54 F sensor freezer temperature, may depend on whether ice is frozen or still water in ice maker.
When the ice maker wire was broken, the readings on ORG and RED were 4.30 and 4.05 volts so I assume high readings above 4 volts might indicate a sensor open condition.


Control board access panel removed



Temperature sensor connector CN30

I have a Samsung RF265AABP model. I had the same problem, with the right 8 on refrigerator temperature flashing (top bar only on 7 segment display). The set buttons would not change the display either. The refrigerator and freezer both were about the right temperature (41F and -3F).

The problem was a broken temperature sensor wire on the ice maker. The sensor assembly often gets snagged on the ice tray or scoop or something and falls down, making it more likely to snag, and prevents the ice maker from cycling when frozen.

I fabricated a metal bracket to hold the temperature sensor assembly in place, and used a small tie wrap to hold the wire to the bracket, up and out of the way after soldering the broken wire of course.
If you have a volt meter you can do some diagnostics. Remove the cover from the back of the refrigerator to access the control board. Measure the voltages on the power supply, marked +12V and +5V
(yel and red, blk common). If the display reads 88 88 then the power supply is probably fine. Measure the voltages on the sensor connector CN30 at the bottom of the main control board (larger one). The gry wire on the left is common, and you should read approximately the following on the other wires starting on the left:
WHT 2.63 may depend on Pantry temp setting fresh or cold
BLU 3.59 R-DEF sensor refrigerator defrost I assume
WHT 2.55 R sensor, refrigerator temperature I assume
ORG 4.06 F-Def sensor, freezer defrost I assume
RED 3.54 F sensor freezer temperature, may depend on whether ice is frozen or still water in ice maker.
When the ice maker wire was broken, the readings on ORG and RED were 4.30 and 4.05 volts so I assume high readings above 4 volts might indicate a sensor open condition.


Control board access panel removed



Temperature sensor connector CN30

I am not sure what model you have, but on my RF265AABP there are two buttons and digital displays at the top of the refrigerator, visible when the doors are open. One sets freezer temperature, the other refrigerator temperature. On my model if they read 88 88 with a blinking digit, it indicates a broken wire to a temperature sensor, usually the ice maker sensor since it tends to get snagged and damaged easily.

you might need a new inlet valve get someone to come and look at it can be a bit tricky to fix

Try the reset procedure:--- Turn the fridge freezer off by the wall socket for 10 minutes. Then reconnect the power again and see.If that is not helping then ,DE is most likely indicating a defrost problem.. open the freezer and take a look at the back of the freezer wall - is there a bunch of frost on that back wall? If the ice is collected there then unplug the unit for 24 hours to manually defrost it or take a hair dryer and defrost all collected ice to defrost the ice quickly.There also could be a temperature problem due to a defrost failure, easy to check the freezer temperature to confirm.---------------- Thank you.

bad control board . try unpluging fo 5 min if prob is still there repl the control .. mm

When the temperature indicator flashes indicate then the temperature has ridge a level lower the the set temperature for example if you set you fridge side to 36 degree and and has fail to stop from getting cooler and has ridge 34 degree. some times those friges fail to calibrate them self tray by unplugging you dirge for 30 seconds and replug it then the board will auto calibrate for the next 24 hours If this problem comes back again that meas than your defrost element on the fridge side is bad.