Does this have a pulsator or normal high rise agitator?
No make no model equals no help.
SOURCE: washer fills up only half way but water keeps trying to fill tub
That is because the water level switch get stuck when water level reaches that particular point.
The water level switch is activated either by a floater sensor or by a membrane sensor that detects water pressure/volume, depending on the model.
On washing machines it is usually a membrane switch, and that is faulty on your machine.
SOURCE: kenmore washer...the water just runs it never fills up.
I have seen this problem numerous times on service calls. It sounds like you have a siphoning problem. The key symptom is the wash tub that continously attempts to fill, but cannot achieve the proper water level. This is often caused by not having an air gap on your drain line, improper placement of the drain hose, or a standpipe that is too small in diameter. The following link explains:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
If you place the drain hose in the standpipe too far, or seal the top of the standpipe, this can cause a vacuum which will cause the symptoms you describe. A tell-tale sign will be a sucking noise as you pull the drain hose from the standpipe. Read through the link I provided. If this does not correct your problem please post back and let me know before you rate this solution. This way I can try to assist you further. I hope this corrects your problem.
SOURCE: When tub filling, it drains out at the same time.
The outlet of the drain hose must be higher than the water level inside the tub--normally the pump inside removes the water when needed. Get a plumber to install a proper height drain pipe for you.
SOURCE: GE Washer Model whdrr418e1ww overflows the tub!
This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.
Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.
Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.
What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.
On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the “Load Level”, “Load Size” or “Water Level”. On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.
How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½” off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.
NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.
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SOURCE: GE WCVH6800 front load washer
In order for the pressure switch to work it has to get pressure.
The switch is located near the top of the right side panel and can be seen by removing the top cover. There is a small pressure hose that leads to the switch and should be checked for crackes or chafing. There are three round sponges on this hose to keep it from rubbing on the moving parts. I had to replace mine after just over a year so I used a heaver hose with the same inner diameter. I used a 3/16 fuel line from Princess Auto and two new 3/8 stainless hose clamps.
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