At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Picture frames are very easy to make, but many people make the same very basic mistake that will ruin your frame. It is very important that you follow the carpenters rule of measure twice and cut once. If you don't cut the sides of the frame to be the same length, and you cut the angles of the corners slightly off then when you put it together the final corner won't line up.
The things that you are going to need is a miter saw, some clamps, a backer board and a drafting squares to make sure you have the right angle.
To set up take your backer board and cut off a piece that's around 4 inches to be used as a sliding marker gauge. After cutting it off attach a small piece of wood to keep the slider from shifting around.
With the saw unplugged and turned off clamp the backer board to the back of the saw. To cut the corners of the a frame you need to set the saw to a 45 degree angle. Make sure to check the angle using a drafting square align one side with the backer board and bring down the saw blade align them to make sure its a 45 degree angle. When you think that its right grab yourself a piece of scrap wood and make an initial cut. After cutting the test measure the angle to make sure that it is the right angle.
When you are ready to cut the frame itself take the four pieces of the frame and make an initial cut. Once all the boards have been cut once take your slider marker to the length that you want the sides of the frame to be and clamp it in. Take the first two sides and one at a time line it up with the backer board with the angle on the outside and the cut point against the slider. Turn on the saw and cut the other end. Repeat these steps to cut the other three sides.
After all the sides have been cut use a 90 degree angle to align the corners of the frame. Lay out all the sides of the frame and line them up as tight as you can. To connect them you can use a staple gun to staple the corners together. If you were aligning it and pushing the sides together when you stapled the corners you should have perfectly aligned corners.
Now all that's left is to sand it down and get the inside ready for a picture and stain it if you want.
Cole,
The cut you are describing is challenging, but possible on a 20" scroll saw. First the blade--- you call this a hollow plank. If this is something like a hollow-core door, then the 1.5" thickness will be no problem. If you have to cut through a solid 1.5" (as you would at the edge) then you have a slow go of it unless you can find a pretty coarse pitch blade (big teeth). Second, making the turn----- assuming you are making this cut somewhere near the center of the 5' lenghth, then you won't be able to simply make a 90 degree turn after you cut the initial 5 inches. But you can make an approximately 60 degree turn, then stop the saw, leave the workpiece in place with the blade still in the cut, and reset the blade to cut sideways (so that the teeth of the blade are facing to your left or right rather than pointing toward you.) Before you make this blade turn, however, you should make the other 5 inch cut, so that you don't have to make the blade turn twice. Alternatively, if the 5 x 1.5 piece you are removing is just scrap, then you can make your two 5 inch cuts just converge to a point at the middle of the 1.5 inch line so that you can remove most of the scrap without moving the blade. Then you can reset the blade more easily with the workpiece removed from the saw.
I hope you found this helpful.----
Oh, one more thing! The 1.5 inch part of the cut would be a lot easier simply by using a coping saw - they are about $15. Actually, you could do the whole cut with a coping saw.
Good luck!
Al K
Square d recommends that the pressure switch be adjusted to specifications of the particular switch (which is sold in pressure ranges preset at the factory). The switch will be erratic it adjusted out of the factory setting range.
From Square D: (adjust the desired cut-in pressure first, then cut-out)
Cut-in: The large spring controls the cut-in pressure. To make adjustments, turn the nut clockwise (compressing the spring) to raise the cut-in point or counterclockwise to lower the point of cut-in.
Cut-out: The small spring is the differential adjustment and controls the cut-out pressure. To raise the cut-out pressure turn the small nut clockwise (more differential); to lower the cut-out pressure turn counterclockwise.
Usually you have a screw set in the middle and one set off to the right or left. One (normally center), will adjust the cut-in and cut-out pressure, the other will only
effect the cut-out. Clock-wise to raise for both screws. I am not positive on your make of switch but it is probably a Furnas or similar brand switch.
To get the desired setting you will need to adjust both screws.First you will need to lower the "Cut-out" screw this should be the plastic screw. Turn this counter clock-wise. You will need to drop it the same amount that you want to raise the "Cut-in" pressure. Second turn the "Cut-in" "Cut-out" screw clock wise to raise both the settings. If you raise the "Cut-in" psi without lowering the other first you will end up with a "Cut-out"pressure of 165 psi. Since I am not positive on the brand check your setting after your first adjustment to verify you are changing the "Cut-out" only psi. Make small adjustments, 1/2 to 1 turn of the screw.
If you have any problems please don't hesitate to ask for a clarification. Hope this helps.
Normally you can find the setting instructions on the underside of the switch cover. In almost all compressor switches you will find two adjustment screws. One is for the "Cut-in/Cut-out" or "Cut-on/Cut-off" psi. The other for "Cut-out" psi only. If there is no label the easiest way to tell the difference is by the springs. The "Cut-in/Cut-out" is the larger of the two springs.
Start by turning the smaller or "Cut-out" screw counter-clockwise. This will decrease the Cut-out psi. I would say to back it off 1 1/2 or 2 turns. Now run the compressor and check where your max psi is. Your target is 105psi if your present "Cut-in" psi is 80psi. Once you have that setting at 105psi, move to the larger screw or "Cut-in/Cut-out" adjustment. Turn the screw clock-wise making 1/4 turns adjustment until you reach the 100/125 psi.
By blow off I assume you mean the unloader valve. There really isn't any setting for the unloader because it's built in to the valve itself.
Since there are some variations for this switch please let me know and I'll explain how to make the adjustments for your type. Or if you are unclear about anything here just let me know and I will be happy to help you out. Hope this helps.
Check your tire pressures: 10 psi. for rear tires. 14 psi. for the front.
Note that according to MTD: Making sharp right hand turns. Twin-blade mower decks are designed with
the discharge on the right side and two side-by-side blades. The
side-by-side twin blade decks have the left hand blade positioned
slightly forward and in front of the right blade. This provides cutting
overlap when traveling in a straight line. As a result, the tractor
should mainly operated making primarily left hand turns when cutting.
During left turns this cutting overlap is maintained. If turning right
when, it is possible to negate this overlap and leave an uncut strip.
×