Washer cycle won't start. It would fill up the water level but it won't wash. I turn it off and on and when I press start button, it would just make beep sounds

THE WASHER IS OBVIOUSLY HAVING A PROBLEM DETECTING THE WATER LEVEL? IT DETECTS AS FULL WHEN ITS NOT AND THEN GOES INTO DRAIN CYCLE? THE FILLS AGAIN? I would suspect the water pressure switch but if it was detecting a full cycle it would sent it into wash cycle? the water inlet valve only allows the amount of water it is told to send in and does not control the amount or drain cycle. Im not sure here but Im thinking maybe the water level switch may be flawed, the one that has low-medium and high? all these can be checked with a multimeter

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR WASHING MACHINE
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp

Problem is too much soap. Wrong soap. Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button.
Wait for door to lock.

Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.

Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble.
After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer.
Turn the washer back "on".
Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check inside the fill hose for debris. There is a screen designed to block debris from getting inside the machine valve. If the screen builds up with debris the water slows down. Sounds like the water is filling too slow. Also the unit and/or the load may not be balanced causing it to stop and drain out. If it's okay then see what lights are blinking when these events occur and post here.

I know you don't want to hear this, but either you did something to the hose filter or you didn't get it plugged back in correctly.

If you banged the water inlet valve in moving it back, it might be damaged.

Suggest you unplug everything and start over.

Add the entire packet of "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" directly into the tub (no laundry) and close the door.

Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button.
Wait for door to lock.

Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.

Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble.
After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer.
Turn the washer back "on".
Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub.
This method of "TUB CLEAN" is *not* from a service manual but has been the best method for cleaning out LG washers more than a year into incorrect detergent usage.

After this--use the correct amount of "HE" detergent & perform a "TUB CLEAN" cycle every (4) months using the *tub clean* option on the control panel.





If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
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The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

1. press POWER button to turn om.
2. press SPIN SPEED button only.
3. press START/PAUSE button/