Sounds like gears in gear box.
SOURCE: Washer agitates, but makes horrible grinding noise. Spins okay.
thanks for posting problem solve :0)
SOURCE: agitator very noisy while washing
There is a small roller that tightens the drive belt for the drum inside this unit. If it is loose it makes a squeaking noise. Tightening this may solve your problem. You will have to take off the back panel to do this repair
SOURCE: loud noise while agitating in wash cycle
I have the same problem, loud plastic squeak/grind when agitating only. I'd like to fix it, but have never taken apart a washing machine.
The advice below sounds good but where do you start with "begin dissassembly from the tub down"....etc. Anyone have a good internet resource with images for disassembling this machine?
Thanks.
SOURCE: My Capacity Plus Admiral Washer will spin and agitate, but it makes a loud grinding noise.
Well, Sounds to me like the Bearings are going out, but it could make that noise a good while, before it goes completely out.. Replacement would possably be more cost effective, Kinda hard to beleive !!!!!!
SOURCE: Kenmore washer model 110.24422300 fills, but
First, see the Sears Parts Site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24422300
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
1) Verify a circuit breaker
isn't tripped
2) Advance the timer
control dial slowly 360 degrees-
If the washer starts
spinning, then we know the motor and drive belt are
fine but that there is something wrong with either the timer control dial or
the agitator solenoid. Call in a professional for this.
If the washer doesn't budge, then verify that the drive belt(s) is
attached and not broken by removing the back panel. If the belt is broken,
replace it. If it is loose, then tighten it by loosening up the bolt holding
the motor and moving it on its swingarm (much like a car alternator) until
there is a 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection in the belt.
Some washers use reversing motors. It's possible the motor works on the spin
cycle but not on the wash cycle. If so, call a pro.
3) Visually inspect the lid
safety switch- Is it loose or cracked?
If so, the washer might work intermittently, stopping at different cycles.
4) Check motor and drive belt- Remove the main access panel (usually in the back). Is the motor spinning, but the drive belt isn't? If so, then you have a drive belt problem.
Take a look at this tip I wrote on the no agitate or spin condition of your washer.
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