How to asa blue a wider pro 9635 need video how to build it ..

Have you tried looking it up on utube, worth a try.

if it is really deleted from FLASH, you will need to connect to ASA with a console cable, start up TFTP server on your pc, and in TFTP copy your ASA image file (.bin - on your CD that you got with ASA) so that you can get it from pc to asa.
then use tftpdnld command to set all the parameters on asa and start the download of the file from your pc .... after it has been done - just reboot asa :)

Hi,
Turn it towards the wider blue line...that should make it colder...

heatman101

connect your laptop to the asa5510 using a cross over cable

You can use an HDMI-to-DVI cable for the TV's DVI input and this would give you video at full HD 1080p resolution but you need to route the audio via standard red & white RCA. It would be better if it has digital audio inputs such as optical or coaxial to get Dolby Digital and other digital formats from your source.

If in the unlikely scenario that it does not have a DVI input (which looks similar to your PC's blue VGA only wider and is white) you can hook it up to your component video-in (which is the red/blue/green RCA inputs). For this you need a cable that has HDMI on one end and red/blue/green for video RCA's +red/white RCA's audio.

This would give you 1080i resolution with stereo audio.

Hope that helps.

Yes, it is possible and Yes you have to purchase it from Cisco.
Sorry, that is how they make the big bucks.
Consider a service contract on the unit, then you can download the firmware much cheaper.

Let's review how the Viv283 should operate, bearing in mind that it was designed for manual cameras.

1. On the dial on the side, set the arrow to point at the ASA setting you (your camera) is using.
   Example: ASA 100 is one dot below the labeled 125 setting.
   
   
2. Look at the four color segments, purple/blue/orange/yellow. Each is lined up (not necessarily exactly) with an f/stop. Each segment also highlights a maximum distance that can be used.
   Example: at ASA 100, the orange segment lines up with f/4 and allows a maximum range of 30 feet.
   (These maximum distances assume the flash is pointed straight ahead.)
   
   
3. Choose the f/stop you want to use. Rotate the sensor on the front to that color.
   Example: on my unit, the sensor is marked "auto thyristor" and its orange setting actually looks red.
   There is also an "M" setting, for manual (full-power) operation.
   
   
4. Take the picture. The flash head can be pointed wherever you want, straight-ahead up to 90 degrees (I usually used 45 degrees). The sensor will quench the flash as soon as it thinks enough light has bounced back from the scene.
   Example: at f/4, with a 45-degree flash angle and a light-colored ceiling, I could usually count on a bright-enough exposure out to some 15 feet or so.
   
   If there actually was enough light, the little green indicator on the back will glow briefly. If there wasn't enough light you won't get the green indicator and you should try again with a wider f/stop.
   
   
5. Or...
   just set the sensor on the front to M for manual, and the flash will dump its full output. Then it's up to you (or your camera) to cope with that 120-guide-number output.
   

Hope that all helps.

My wifes DELL has a F key with a blue icon that does that

take a look at the BLUE symbols and see if there is one showing a rectangle with either blue bars on each side or similar

When she presses it the screen changes to a 4:3 aspect with black bars on each side