Is this likely a bearing issue; if so is this best repaired myself, by a service technician or by replacement washer?

SOURCE: Squealing noise during spin cycle

The spin cycle activates the fast mode on the motor, squealing normal occurs due to belt slippage. I would check your belts (look for cracks. Check the belt tension as well, most washers have an adjustment, normally on the motor that allows you to increase the tension of the belt.

SOURCE: Frigidaire top-load washer Loud noise during spin

its either the upper spin bearing or lower spin bearing. the upper can be replaced by itself but the lower requires the transmission the be replaced

SOURCE: Noise during spin cycles

GE WPXH214ACC Washer drum makes loud noise when spinning sometimes. We've had it since 2005 & never had this happen before. Washer is level, must stop & redistribute clothes to correct. Just started happening now.

SOURCE: Loud noise from Kenmore front loading washer

Here is a compilation of my advice on repairing these units
This is a cronic problem of front loader machines. The two bearings that hold the wash drum are dried out and then they over heat. The heat builds up and weakens the seal that keeps water in and grease out starts to leak and the problem just becomes worse with every load. A service repair man will charge you the cost of a new machine to fix the unit. You can replace the bearings and seal with parts from a bearing supply store and if you do, only use bearings from Japan or Germany. Your machine came with ones from China and that is why these machines are failing after so many years.

The bearings on the back of the outer shell, the ones that spin the drum, are finished. There is also a seal on the inside of the shell that keeps water from leaking and it is leaking also. As a result the brown grease from the bearings is seeping past the seal and contaminating your wash. You need to replace the bearings and seal to fix the problem. You can go to your local appliance store and order the rear half of the outer shell for about $230.00 and have the same problem in 4 years. Or you can buy the bearings and seal at a bearing supply store for about $100.00.
The part numbers needed are:
Seal #408010 DAE (vulcanised double lip seal)
Rear bearing 6308 (sealed bearing)
Front bearing 6307 (sealed bearing)

The bearings to buy are made in Japan. If you buy cheep China bearings then you are asking for trouble because that is what was in your machine to start with. Timkin and *** are 2 of the best made bearings.
To remove the bearings you can use a hammer and a metal punch. To install them use a hammer and a 2X4 on end and be careful not to damage the bearing. This is easy to do.
An appliance repair shop will charge you the price of a new washer to do this repair. The choice is yours.
The hardest part is the door bellows. Not too hard, just need a couple of tools and an hour or so. First, open the door. Next you need a thin bladed Richard brand knife model #S-12 or a razor blade and a flat thin screw driver. The seal has been glued on and you need to find a place that you can slip the screw driver between the door and the seal. Jently pull as much of the seal away from the machine as you can. Once you find a glued piece slip the knife bewteen the seal and the machine to cut the glue. It is good glue so it will take some time to do this all of the way around the door opening. Once all of the glue has been cut, undo the plastic water spout clamp, reach inside of the machine and grab the seal by the top of the wash tub. Pull down and out at the same time and the seal will come out with a little effort but watch out for the tension spring. The spring has some tension and could come out rather quick so do not have your head by the door when doing this step. This concludes the removal and since you bought a new seal, all that is neccessary is to clean off all of the glue residue on the machine and the years of grime on the tub where the seal goes. Clean these areas very well and it will pay dividends later.

To install the new seal look on the wash tub at the top and bottom and there should be an arrow cast into the plastic in one of the locations. Line up the arrow on the rubber seal (search for it) with the one on the wash tub. Carefully instal the seal by having a finger in the seal groove and hooking the seal over and under the wash tub lip. Do not let the arrow slip to a new location as you are doing this. Once the seal is in place double check to make sure that the seal is properly installed. Now gently push the seal into the wash tub so that you have access to the outer lip of the wash tub where the tension spring goes. 2 people are required for the next step. One person will place and hold the spring in the groove and another person will stretch and feed the spring in both directions around the spring groove. Take your time and do not loose your cool with this step. If you need to use non pionted or sharp tools to assist, what ever works is fine. Once the spring is in place you need to reglue the door seal to the machine. I use black RTV silicone from your local auto parts store. Place some glue into the channel and pull the gasket out from inside the machine. Slip the seal over the lip all of the way around the door opening and remove any excess silicone. Let this cure over night before using the machine. That is the end and the door seal is replaced.

SOURCE: loud noise during spin cycle

what kinda noise, sqeeling, or clunking, mite be sumthing small that made its way behind ajatator an is causeing noise..or one of the springs that hold it broke..sorry i dont no what kind of noise.....