If you're having to hold that inside button down to bring it down that is because of your sensors being out of alignment. On the bottom left and bottom right of your garage door track are your photo eyes and if they're not cleaned and pointing toward each other, then they will not allow the door to close. It will only close with the inside button because it is hardwired and when you hold the button down it shoots a continuous current that bypasses Those sensors. Remotes and keypad are wireless and must have photo sensors aligned to work
SOURCE: Craftsman Model 139.53684 Keyless entry doesn't work
The remotes and keypad use the receiver which is part of the logic board.'t The button on the wall is hardwired and doesn't use the receiver. You might pull the logic board and check for bad connections on the printed circuit.
SOURCE: How to reprogram Sears Mult-Function Keyless Entry garage opener
On the garage opener that actually opens the door the one on the
ceilling has a green or orange button that is called the learn button
just press and release it you have 30 seconds to punch in a 4 digit
code and when your done press and hold the enter button until the
lights on the garage open blink once or twice then just press the code
again and it will open the door press enter once to reverse the effect
and and twice to stop the door completely.
Hope that helps
SOURCE: Reset Craftsman keyless entry pad.
What you are asking for is not possible. You need to call a garage door repair technician. They will drill a hole through the door and using a special tool can pull the rope to release the door.
SOURCE: Craftsman Model 139.53684 Security+ Keyless Entry
To answer your question the opener is in vacation mode. Press and hold for 3 seconds the button on your wall control with the lock icon. The green light will stop flashing and you will be back in business.
SOURCE: keyless entry pad for garage door opener
THE FREQUENCY OF THE UNITS ARE PROBABLY NOT COMPATABLE THEY CHANGED ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO.
SORRY - I THINK YOU NEED A NEW KEYPAD TO GO WITH THE NEW OPENER.
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I am curious if you were able to get it fixed yourself. If you need me too help any further than just let me know.
Thanks for the suggestion but I did already tried that but that was not the issue. It is either one of the light sockets that is defective or the logic board. I will replace the light sockets for now. Will let you know if it works or not.
Scott, I replaced the light socket but that didn’t fix the problem either. But I noticed that if I use the garage door remote 5-10 inches from the opener, it works. Does this mean the logic board is defective and needs to be replaced?
Yes sir it's either receiver part of your logic board, or you're antenna has been snipped off. It's that purple or black wire that hangs down below the head. I've seen it happen before where it's gotten cut but it's unusual. If you want to look at the back of your operator where the wires go in and your learn code button is, read the flashes on the LED bulb. If you got a problem with that logic board it'll usually Flash and give you a troubleshooting code. Read The Flash according to the sequence and then look it up in your owner's manual or let me know how many flashes you're getting in between the pause. Flash flash flash pause flash flash flash pause is 3 and then look it up in your owner's manual or like I said holler at me. You are getting close to figuring it out. If you mess with that logic board, make sure you discharge a capacitor beforehand by taking a screwdriver across the terminals. It's store's voltage and it'll knock you on your backside if you're not careful.
Well what's the verdict? I've been busy or I would have checked in with you sooner.
Sorry to just getting back with you Scott but I was waiting for a garage door opener extender from Sears to enhance the short range but that did not fix the problem. I guess the next step is either replace the logic board (too costly) or buy a new garage door opener. Any suggestions?
Well I've tried to respond twice and for some reason it hasn't gone through so I'll try one more time. It sounds like a logic board problem. Did you get a look at the LED light by learn code button? Getting the sequence of flashes can help you out. I keep used logic boards and can help you out if needed. I'm not sure the date of the operator but there will be a manufacturing sticker right by that learn code button. Either that or the color of the learn code button will give a range of production date also. I keep old logic boards to help anyone who needs the board but has an old operator that it might not be the best idea to sink the money into otherwise. You give me some information and I can see if I have one that will match up. I could send you one and if it worked you could pay me for the postage. I usually sell them for up to half price of what a new board would cost but always willing to lend a helping hand when I can.
Hey Glen, I wanted to touch base with you and let you know that I took a class recently that discussed the very issue that you have and in all honesty I was unaware of until now. The change in the light bulbs and going to LED bulbs can and will affect the range of your remote controls and the wireless keypads. To keep it simple, the LED wires aren't wrapped the same and can produce an electromagnetic field and restrict the range of any remotes working on a wireless frequency. the bottom line is change out the LED bulbs if you have them in there and that very well could be your problem. If you don't have any LEDs on that operator and have the standard halogen bulbs in there now, I refer you back to all of our other past messages because they are still applicable. Thought I'd throw that out there and sorry I was a little late to the dance but these LEDs we're not a factor in the past but due to them gaining popularity oh, it is now something to keep in mind in the future. Thanks, Scott
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