How do you do you get power cord out of compartment in back of freezer

Remove the dust compartment door to gain access to the cover over the wiring and switch compartment. Remove three screws to gain access to be able to remove the old power cord and slide it through the hole in the back of the vacuum. Put new cord through the hole and wire back up as it was before.

This procedure worked for replacing the cord on my Hoover U6425-900. At a minimum, you will need a number 2 Phillips screwdriver, wire cutter, and two electrical wire nuts and electrical tape. Remove the accessory tools from the storage compartment. Remove two screws, these are recessed. Remove the cover from the bag compartment, remove two screws located at top corners of bag compartment. You may have to open the side filter door but the accessory tool storage compartment should be free at this point and can be removed. You should see the power cord and related wiring. If you have a digital camera you could take a photo at this point in case you need a point of reference. Make note of the power cord strain relief routing and length of wire. Too much wire will make reattaching the storage compartment difficult and the routing prevents the cord from being pulled out.
On my model the wiring colors were purple, orange and white. My replacement cord had black and white wires. The orange wire will not be involved in cord replacement. Using the wire cutters clip the purple wire about three inches back from the existing terminal. If present, clip the two nylon wire ties and discard. The white wire will have a crimped on wire connector. Clip the white wire about three inches back from the existing wire connector. The old power cord can be removed by pulling it out from the rear, it should just slide out of the rubber insulating boot. If not use a set of pliers and crimp the boot from the wiring side and push it outside the vacuum housing. If you have to do this make sure you slip the boot over the replacement cord before you insert the new cord back into the vacuum housing. Remove about a half inch of insulation from the purple and white wires and from your replacement cord unless it was supplied with insulation already removed. Use new wire nuts and connect the white wires. Use the other wire nut and connect the purple wire to the remaining new power cord wire. Use some electrical tape and wrap the nuts to the wires a couple of times so they won't loosen. Make sure you route the power cord around the posts as this is the strain relief and prevents the cord from being pulled out. Reassemble and test.

It may sound silly but 1) are there any kids in the house? My son occasionally would not knowingly mess with the thermostat settings of the refrigerator and freezer. Sometime shutting it off, sometimes creating frozen milk in the refrigerator. Check the thermostat settings. 1-2 rarely 3 for a refrigerator. 2 to 3 for a freezer rarely 4. If you have to go over those settings then. Is there any food, cords or objects blocking the full closing of the doors? Are the magnetic strips of the doors intact? they occasionally retain the warped shape if something was blocking it opened. Are the evaporation coils in the back of the unit clean? If the metal lines in the back of the unit are dirty that can cause great inefficiency. Vacuum them.
If there is no problem with any of those, try adjusting the setting to one higher number than normal, if in a few weeks you have to readjust again to a higher number then there may be a freon leak.

if you have power to it and it doesn't run then it's bad.some fans won't get power till the sensor on the evaperator gets cold enuff. the sensor could be bad is there frost building up where there shouldn't be if none sensor is good clean your condencer coils under frige while your at it make sure you put the back cover back on it needs to be there radio shack has cheep meters for checking for power

It may be just the water control valve on back of refrigerator. Put tap water in ice maker and lower lever for on. After ice is made, does it drop to tray? At this time when empty is the time the control valve is asked for water. The problem could be in valve on back or the inside ice maker itself. If you can try a few test with me I will help you locate the problem. Let me know what you find as I go through this with you. Sea Breeze
http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

good then go ahead and ohm out the sensor and the relays to see if the resistance is close to the normat. 70 degrees is roughly 1000 ohms. relay you are lookling for continuity or open. then you can also ohm the fan motor too. let me know what you find;.that will determin whts bad and whats good

I turned off the refrigerator and left the freezer door open so the coils and the vents could thaw out. The cold air was not getting to the refrigerator section because of ice blocking the vents.

Re. Zanussi ZK87/46EFS Fridge Freezer

The same symptom occurred in our fridge freezer. The fridge compartment warmed up whilst the freezer compartment continued to keep temperature.

The cause of our problem was diagnosed as a frozen sensor that controls a flap, that controls the flow of cold air from the freezer compartment up into the fridge compartment. We were advised to power off the fridge freezer (removing all food and trays from the freezer unit first), and to leave it to defrost for 24hrs. We needed to place a few towels on the floor of the freezer compartment to soak up the melt water. After 24hrs we followed the power up instructions in the manual (versions are available online if you have lost yours). Within a few minutes it was obvious that the fridge compartment was being cooled – Problem solved :)

actually, freezer fan has to come on otherwise how is the fridge supposed to cool.(fridge draws off from the freezer compartment). check if there is power to the fan. if freezer is nice and cold and fan does not run(assuming there is no power to the fan at that time, then you would need to check your freezer thermistors after that, your board. all this is assuming you dont have a blockage or shortage of gas in the sustem.

Sounds like the evap fan is not running. The fan takes cold air from the freezer to cool the refer compartment. If the freezer is cold the compressor is running. Generally the freezer will stay cold since the cooling coils are there but it must have the fan working to get the air up to the refer area. Pull everything out the freezer and take the back panel off to view the coils and fan, etc. It's a simple easy job to change the fan. If you find the coils are a total block of ice then it's another problem... the defrost cycle isn't working. Sooo... see if the fan is running in the freezer compartment first. See http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/AA43-57.gif for fan location, item 18 is the fan motor. Let us know what you find out.