There are 9 damper actuators M847D-zone connected by a 3 wire in a parallel pattern. The zone that is shorted has a wired TH8320R1003 Thermostat. It also has 2 other zones that wirelessly connected.
Chances are it's a bad daamper. You can bypass any tstat by wiring red green and yellow together. Bypass the tstat, if still blinking you'll know it's the damper. You can then swap that damper to another zone and be sure the new zone then starts flashing.
SOURCE: Honeywell TZ-4 Misbehaving
there is a "zone a lone" switch on the upper right side of the panel. Make sure it is in the "occupied" position. I believe that is up. If that doesn't work reply back.
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Thanks Thomas... I actually tried something like this. I disconnected all dampers after the first one and just tried connecting only the first one. It continued to blink. So I thought that it was first one that was shorted. I connected only the second one and the system worked for about 12 hours. Unfortunately the light started blinking again after that! The other two zones work fine. Unfortunately Zone 1 is the ground floor and it gets pretty cold down there this time of year without heat. Do you think that there could be a short somewhere else? If so how can I trouble shoot it? Thank you again for your assistance. Really appreciate it.
Turn the power off at the indoor unit. At your 8320 tstat put the red white and green wires all in the r terminal and tighten the screw. leave the face off the wall and resume power. this is bypassing tstat and running the heat for zone 1 (assuming the zone that is having the issue is the one with the hard wired tstat) . keep in mind that nothing now will turn that heat off, if in fact it starts to work, except you unhooking those wires. dont unhook the wires without turning the power off but try this test to see if the problem is in that tstat.
Hi Thomas, thank you for the advice. We did a bunch of troubleshooting and believe we narrowed down the possible issue.
We tied the green, white and red wires in the TSTAT together and the heat kicked on, so it’s not the thermostat.
We also connected all the zone 1 dampers to the zone 3 tstat and turned the heat on and they opened and closed so the dampers in zone 1 themselves are working.
However, in testing things further we realized that the short in zone 1 only happens when another zone calls for heat and the zone 1 dampers are asked to close. That is causing the short and blinking yellow light. What could be causing this? do you think it’s the actual HZ322 board itself?
It is possibly a bad zone panel but I would suspect a damper first. If access to all dampers is too difficult you can always check airflow at the vents. Turn on all zones, verify airflow at ALL zone 1 grills. Turn off zone 1 tstat and verify ALL zone 1 grills have then stopped blowing air. Keep in mind that dampers can work sometimes and then sometimes get stuck, may not find the damper that is bad the first go round. I would believe that if all grills closed on zone 1 your alert light would not be on but I could be wrong. Hate to see you replace the panel and end up with the same problem. Ironically I have a 322 laying in my garage not being used.
Just to clarify did you say you had 3 tstats controlling 9 dampers?
Yes, there are 3 zones but zone 1 controls 9 dampers, Z2 controls 4 and Z3 controls 4.
Just curious, are you interested in selling the HZ322?
If so is it new, is it in a box and how much?
No my board is used, I took it out of a house when I replaced a system and installed a Lennox zone system. Never thought about selling, not sure what I'll ever do with it. I'm curious as to why you need to have 9 dampers on one zone? Can it not be dampered once to shut down the whole floor?
Hey Thomas.
We troubleshot it one more time. Lead to the same suspicion that z1 was an issue on the board. So we ordered a new board. Installed the 322 board, configured the system & the tstats. Now all the zones open and close with no issues & no short.
However a new problem has arisen.
When Z2 calls for heat, the dampers open,
Z1&3 close & the heat Runs for 45 seconds then shuts off. The fan continues to run & the Heat light turns off on 322 panel & the wireless panel lights go off.
Message display says
“ AC voltage insufficient “ !
Any ideas?
My first thought would be high temp limit switch opening. Did you ever only call for zone 2 on the other board? Seems as if this would have happened before though so uncertain. How about with 2 and 3 calling and not zone 1? I do believe on those honeywell dampers there are settings that will not allow the dampers to close 100%. Setting a few like this (say 75%) will allow more heat to escape from the unit and prevent high temp limit being reached. Provided this is the problem in the first place. ???
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