My breaker won't hammer but motor running - Hammering

Check the brushes and commutator for bad contacts due to dirt, etc.
Ditto for motor bearings and associated mechanism.

If cleaning all has no results then the motor is bad.

Striker pin problem / broken connecting rod OR 1 o-ring 1 610 210 195 pos 165 thats become soft and not round anymore that will lock the striker in the sleeve when the lubrication gets older
The most caused suggestions but a cylindrical gear thats broken is rare



http://www.powertools-aftersalesservice.com/public/bosch-pt/service?p_auth=qwTIfM5m&p_p_auth=fCklnOO5&p_p_id=WSRP_bc93764e__6873__4b00__9a29__b331c9759da9&p_p_lifecycle=1&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&_WSRP_bc93764e__6873__4b00__9a29__b331c9759da9_wsrp-navigationalState=L0JPUy9QVEFTLVBULVNJUy1TaXRlL2VuX1VTLy0vVVNEL1ZpZXdQcm9kdWN0LURpc3BhdGNoO3BnaWQ9YmNkZTdkNTFiZjM0NGE0YTU1ZjYzYTYyOGY0Mi1yM1JtZlhPO3NpZD1ySWdEM2JoYjhNb25oZUR1YVZRZkpyZlF1a093UDNGQU5vbUFkanI3WlpPWjNLNlFIMm89

It runs and has no hammer function , ?
First lock bolt is worn in the machine and also the O-rings burned or hardened by the leak and also the machine will run dry within or even broken.
See if repair is feasible, a rotary hammer is usually not feasible to service a breaker usually because they are made from other materials and also be made permanent load.

2 answer if the motor is only not running ? powercable carbonbrushes autostop in one of the brushes has activated or the switch or electronic is damaged 1 or more of the collectors of the armature are defect , or the electric field has a contact lost .

The armature is probably binding with the metallic components causing the hammer to not pound on the ground

Check power to motor assuming that a 5HP motor is on 208 -240volt make sure both lines have 120volts from the breaker. Take belt of pulley so no resistance. If motor runs with the belt off pump and not when on than the problem is in the pump not the motor. Do you have a contactor after the breaker prior to the motor? If so check each for correct operation.

If the circuit breaker will not reset - all the way off and then back on with a click sound. Then something you have plugged into the outlets in those rooms is probably shorted causing an over current condition. If the circuit breaker won't reset, shut off all lights and then unplug EVERYTHING and then see if it will reset. If it does, then replug everything one at a time until the electricity goes off again, that is the bad apple.But if it won't reset, then your breaker is probably bad. Yes, they do go bad, just infrequently.

Bosch brute is made to work all day every day and will continue to do so if it is not over or under powered and properly lubed. If not powered correctly, motor will not turn at full rpm, get very hot and burn brushes to point that auto stop feature will stop motor (brush will push away from armature, or burn switch). The hammer will overheat if too long or wrong gauge of cord is used. Also if run on generator with voltage /cycles incorrect. Under normal use, motor will not get very hot. Another problem with overheating is that the grease will melt out of range to do any proper lubrication. If you are sure that it is getting proper voltage /amps then may need lubrication or bearing work. Remove bearing cover and turn armature by hand. It should be easy to turn. If stiff, suspect bearing/grease. With amp meter connected, check amp draw and compare to rated amps.

You should be able to go to an electric motor repair shop and they can order them for you.Also check tool repair shops in your area.

The shaft from the motor to the drive gear is likely not working the action of the hammer. There is a gear which spins the gears to achieve the hammer action, suspect the gear is either stripped, broken or both.

Is the motor new or old? Is this a recent problem or has it always been that way? What is the motor used for? Does the motor start and stop a lot, or does it run continuous? Is it constantly under load? Is this residential or commercial use? Approx.how long is the circuit? What size wire and breaker are being used? Does it kick out when it starts or while it's running?
The FLA (Full Load Amps) for that motor is 22 x 1.25 = 28 amps. In GENERAL, a motor like that usually requires a minimum #10 (THHN or THWN) wire on a 30 amp breaker. However, NEC does permit up to a 70 amp breaker (250% of the FLA) if the 30 amp breaker is not sufficient for starting.
Remember that it's the built-in motor overloads that protect the wire. Best practice is to use the lowest size breaker possible for ground fault protection that will still allow the motor to start. A 40 amp breaker would be permissible.
On the other hand, if the circuit is very long, you need to increase the wire size to #8 or larger.
If this is an old motor that didn't have this problem before with your current setup, then you may need a new motor, and increasing the breaker size is not usually the solution, at least not without a qualified electrician actually seeing and evaluating the situation first.