SOURCE: kenmore whisper tome model # 116
If this uses a cogged belt, it should not fall off unless it is the wrong one. Give me the whole model #, then I can look and see what you have. The number of the power head is needed.
SOURCE: I have a Dayton (motor model #4C354C) model 3C215C
if you go to the link below there is a small diagram and a parts list but not alot of info available for this product and of course it has been discontinued. im sure if you need anymore info you could call grainger they are very helpful and can get you a better parts breakdown http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/rp_search_by_product.jsp?mfgSearchCriteria=DAYTON&modelSearchCriteria=3C215&suppSearchCriteria=20005580&search.x=1&exact=yes&from=detail
SOURCE: i need to replace the bearings on lg wm2277
The metal covering piece is probably the outer seal for the front bearing--you remove both by driving the bearing out with a long metal rod (or a long punch) that reaches all the way through from the back (you have removed the inner drum and end shaft first). Tap fairly gently on the rod with a hammer and move the bearing end to another location after a few taps. The seal should pop out first, with the bearing next. Once out, look for a number on the bearing edge--it should match the replacement. Inspect the surface where the seal mates with the shaft--it should be pit and wear free. If it is not, a local machine shop should be able to repair that surface (and cheaper than a new inner drum assembly). It is essential that this surface be perfect as it keeps water out of the bearing behind it. The seal can be reused if it still fits fairly tightly on the shaft and that it was not damaged during the removal process. Check with a local bearing supply house to get a replacement bearing. The new bearing will have been greased at the factory, but you need to grease the shaft and inner seal lip with waterproof grease before installing the seal. Don't strike the inner part of the new bearing, only along the outer edge when tapping it back into the housing. Same with the seal. The far end bearing will likely be good and not need to be replaced--slowly turn the inside part and feel for any roughness which would indicate the need for replacement. If so, it gets tapped out from the front side in a similar manner as the front removal. Good luck!!
SOURCE: Kenmore frontload clothes washer (Canadaian
Wow! Mine also looks just like this - a large hole in the back of the spin basket. Same timing too - about 59 months for me. All of a sudden, during the spin cycle we heard a huge bang,...and then the banging continued. There is no way I'm spending $200 + labor to get his fixed. If the part is only going to last 5 years, then I may as well go ahead and get a new washer....and it definitely won't be this make or model!
SOURCE: Fan Light
My unit has 100 watts and it shows no problems. I don't remember any heat sensors in the unit. I am assumig that it does not trip the house circui breaker. It could be a loose light bulb or a socket that needs adjustment. Replace the light bulb and make sure the bulb is tight.
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