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maybe the wire connected to it or the button responsible for the turbo switch is destroyed or not functional anymore.Try to ask an expert on how to disassemble your washing machine besides don't disassemble directly without the supervision of anyone knowledgeable of that certain thing and if nothing else will be done then that's the time to contact the manufacturer of the certain appliance
No you cannot rebarrel it legally as the serial numbers have been destroyed which will be looked at as suspicious (why was the numbers removed stolen or criminal use and no barrel may mean a crime attached to it ) It is a federal crime to possess a firearm with an obliterated serial number in the united states Or more precisely get caught/ found with one
Don't buy any appliances that are engineered to fail.maybe manufacturers will begin to value customers more than profit.HAHAHAHAaaa,,, almost hurt myself,,that's funny
Hello. From what you're describing, it sounds like the user interface board(fancy name for control panel) is defective. The part number for it is W10215814 and is #9 on the Pic 1 exploded parts diagram. The sequential pics show the procedure for entering diagnostic mode, interpreting error codes, clearing codes, and testing different parts of the dryer. I hope I helped you!
power surge or not enough power to the inverter for the items you are running,remember,compressors and heating elements and motors use 3 times as much as ratings to use or start,if you have those hooked up,then the inverter is burned out
You should first remove short circuit and replace destroyed components and after that the appliance should reset itself. If is still not happend there is some other components destroyed including PCB.
Hi the is a two year g/tee on all Miele appliances. I would contact Miele and book a service call. The appliance most likely requires new clock. Modified clocks are available which allow you to change setting via control knobs rather than keypad.
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Ouch! This is not looking good for for this A/C if you were somehow able to plug it into a 240 volt outlet. Very few of these appliances have fuses or other overvoltage / overcurrent protective devices built in.
Electrical outlets are designed to reject plug connected appliances that (1) draw more current (or amps) than the circuit can safely provide, and / or (2) those appliances that operate on a different voltage than available at the outlet. So, it would be pretty hard to get a 120 volt appliance to plug into a 240 volt outlet - UNLESS you have "modified" the plug's prongs. Tearing out ground pins and / or twisting blades with pliers definitely falls into the "modified" category. It can also happen if a "handyman" installs a 120 volt configured outlet on a 240 volt circuit and simply tells you it is 240 v, not 120 v.
The compressor motor is probably toast, as are any electronics used to control the unit. Nothing is unrepairable though - it just comes down to how much you are willing to spend on fixing a 3 year old unit - compared to the cost of brand new.
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