I have a Pro Form 315 CSX which the pulse meter has stopped working on. How do I repair this?

Hi Stephen, Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair.

Stephen, here's how you diagnose if its the "Engine Controller" OR the "Wiring Itself". If you have or can get your hands on a test light, then here's what you do. FIRST: Unhook the number 5 Injector and attach the test light across the terminals of the connector. Then start the engine and see if the test light is pulsing on and off real fast. If you have no pulse at the connector that plugs onto the Injector, then move to the engine controller. NOTE: before checking the controller disconnect the negative battery cable so you don't damage the controller. NEXT: You'll need the connector still plugged in for the test, so remove the connector from the engine controller and back probe from the back of the connector the number Injector Circuit. NOTE: DO NOT probe on the side that plugs into the controller, do it from the back side. NEXT: Plug the connector back into the controller and start the vehicle. If you do not have a pulsing light then the engine controller for the number circuit is bad and will need a new controller. If you DO have a pulsing light then its in the wiring OR the connector at the Injector. If you have OR can get your hands on a DVOM which is a digital volt meter you can check which wire is at fault. Here's how. Disconnect both connectors at the Injector and the Controller and put the meter on OHM's then you can probe each wire from the Injector to the Controller to see if the wire is broken. If the meter has a beeper you will hear it beep, if it doesn't you will have a reading on the meter. When you find the wire that's broken run a wire from the Injector connector to the Controller Connector by wiring to the wire coming out of the back of each connector. If you should need further assistance please visit my auto-repair-website its free: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

Always check the sensor alignment first. If its properly aligned, check the sensor magnet. If thats ok, replace sensor

My Screen on my Pro Form 325 CSX exercise bike Only says Hello
How do I fix this?Do I need to activate at IFIT.COM?

Hi, you will need a voltmeter to diagnose the problem. Set your meter to DC, turn the key on, and check the voltage at the positive coil terminal (black wire with white stripe) with the other probe at engine ground. If no battery voltage, suspect your ignition switch or fuse. If you have battery voltage to the coil, next set your meter to AC and check voltage across the coil primary winding (black wire with white stripe and other black wire) while someone cranks the engine. You should have at least 1 volt AC or more. If no AC voltage, suspect your crank angle sensor inside the distributor. The distributor would have to be replaced, so you would want to be sure it's bad. There are some specific tests you could run, but I would need to know the exact engine you have to provide correct test procedures.




TESTING

E16i, CA16DE and CA18DE Engines
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

Fig. Fig. 1: Crank angle sensor testing terminals-CA16DE engine

Fig. Fig. 2: Crank angle sensor testing-E16i engine

Fig. Fig. 3: Crank angle sensor testing-CA18DE engine

1. Disconnect the CMP electrical connector.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Using a voltmeter and check the CMP power source between terminal B and a known good engine ground. The voltmeter should read approximately battery voltage.
   
   If reading is as specified, proceed to the next step. If reading is not as specified, check power supply circuitry.
   

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Using an ohmmeter, check the CMP sensor ground circuit, by connecting the meter between a known good engine ground and terminal:
   
   E16i engine- terminal D . CA16DE and CA18DE engines- terminal A .
   

1. Continuity should exist.
   
   If continuity does not exist, repair open in ground circuit. If continuity does exist, proceed to the next step.
   
2. Start the engine.
3. To test the sensor 180° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:
   
   E16i and CA18DE engines-ECU terminal 17 and a known good engine ground. CA18DE engine-ECU terminals 21, 31 and a known good engine ground.
   

1. To test the sensor 1° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:
   
   E16i and CA18DE engines-ECU terminal 8 and a known good engine ground. CA18DE engine-ECU terminals 22, 32 and a known good engine ground.
   

1. The logic probe should indicate that a pulse signal exists in both tests. If a pulse signal was not present, inspect wiring. If wiring is okay, replace the crank angle sensor.

check the fuses for the ECU just in case first then if all ok check the crank sensor with a automotive meter for a voltage across the multiplug connection of the sensor ,disconnect it and connect the meter to these two wires and see if it shows a pulse of voltage as engine is cranked .if no pulse replace the sensor ,if a pulse try the spare key in case the chip has dropped out of the key .

Hi, the camshaft position sensor signal is not reaching the powertrain control module. This can be a problem with the sensor, the connector, or the wiring. The sensor is inside the distributor. See figure below and some test procedures you can try from Autozone.com. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

TESTING
To completely test this sensor and circuitry, you need the DRBII scan tool, or equivalent. This is a test of the camshaft position sensor only.
For this test you will need an analog (non-digital) voltmeter. Do NOT remove the distributor connector. Using small paper clips, insert them into the backside of the distributor wire harness connector to make contact with the terminals. Do NOT damage the connector when inserting the paper clips. Attach the voltmeter leads to these clips.

1. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the sensor output wire.
2. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the ground wire.

Fig. Camshaft Position Sensor circuit schematic

Fig. Camshaft Position Sensor wires: (1) ORN (5v supply), (2) BK/LB (sensor ground), (3) TN/YL (camshaft position sensor signal)

1. Turn the ignition ON . Rotate the engine. The meter should show a reading of less than 1 volt and a high voltage reading of 5.0 volts as the high and low points on the wheel pass the sensor.
2. If there is no voltage reading at all, check the meter connections.
3. If voltage is still not present, check for voltage at the supply wire.
4. If 5.0 volts is not found at the supply wire, check for voltage at cavity A-17 of the 32-way connector. Leave the engine controller harness connected for this test.
   

NOTE If voltage is not found at the PCM connector, you will need to diagnose the system using a DRBII scan tool, or equivalent, or take the vehicle to a qualified shop.

1. If voltage is present at the engine controller connector, but not the supply wire:
   1. Check continuity between the sensor and supply wire. This is checked between the distributor connector and cavity A-17 . If continuity is not present, repair the wire harness.
   2. Check for continuity between the camshaft position sensor output wire and cavity A-18 at the engine controller. If continuity is not present, repair the wire harness.
   3. Check for continuity between the ground circuit wire at the distributor connector and ground. If continuity is not present, repair the wire harness.
   
   
2. Crank the engine while observing the voltmeter. The voltmeter needle should fluctuate 0-5 volts, approximately. This will verify the camshaft position sensor is operating properly and a sync pulse signal is being generated.
3. If a sync pulse signal is not detected, and all other variables have been eliminated, replace the camshaft position sensor.

the most common cause is wheel speed sensor or sensor wiring not reading proper wheel speed.it is also possible the reluctor wheel inside front bearing is clogged with rust and debris and unable to send magnetic pulse. This can be tested with scanner to determine wheel in question.ohm meter can be used to test sensor and reluctor pulse.

the crank sensor is usually located near the crankshaft of the engine, not on the transmission with wires leading to it.

TESTING Fig. 1: Attach suitable jumper wires between the CKP sensor and CKP sensor harness. A DC volt meter can then be attached to the necessary terminals to test the sensor as the engine is being cranked
Typically, when a crankshaft position sensor DTC is set, checking the integrity of the wiring connecting the sensor (using a digital volt meter) to the PCM harness connector is the best way to determine if the sensor is faulty. If the wires all have continuity, and a DTC is set, it is probable that the sensor is faulty. Although a procedure is given here for testing of the crankshaft sensor itself, it is generic, and may not apply to every vehicle. Typically, the crankshaft position sensor harness connector wire leads are labeled. However, it is advisable to use this procedure in conjunction with the wiring diagrams in Section 6 to identify the terminals on the crankshaft sensor before connecting test leads.

1. Turn the ignition key OFF.
2. Unplug the sensor electrical harness and check the terminals for corrosion and damage.
3. Check the sensor wiring harness wires for continuity and repair as necessary.
4. Attach the sensor harness making sure it is firmly engaged.
5. Using a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set on the DC scale, backprobe the sensor signal terminal (terminal A) with the positive lead of the meter and backprobe the sensor ground terminal (terminal B) with the negative lead of the meter.
6. Have an assistant crank the engine and observe the meter.
7. You should have approximately a 5 volt reference signal pulse. If not the sensor may be defective.

Your vehicle does not have a traditional speedometer cable. Instead it uses a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) to read speed of the vehicle below is a short test to help you determine if it is the VSS that has failed.

SPEEDOMETER VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR TEST

1. Press and release trip odometer button until function number 6 appears in display window.

2. Turn a front wheel and observe display (pulses are added to number in display. Check impulse signal for speedometer vehicle speed sensor. If 7 pulses are generated per wheel revolution, vehicle speed sensor is okay.

3. If specified number of pulses are not generated, check for open in wiring harness between speed sensor and instrument cluster. Repair wiring harness if necessary. If wiring harness is okay, replace speedometer vehicle speed sensor.

the speed sensor next the starter motor
sends a voltage pulse to the speedometer.

If you can get at the connectors
just down from the speedo you can
check for this pulse.

Block the back wheel off the ground.
Unplug the connectors and hook
a volt meter to the pink/green +
and the green/black - wires
on the harness side not the speedo side.

Turn on the key and then
check for a 0-5 volt pulse
when you turn the wheel forward
slowly.

If you have a pulse the speed sensor
is likely okay and your speedo
circuit board is faulty.

If you get no voltage pulse then you have
to check the pulse closer to the
speed sensor or check the connectors
and wires for faults.
No pulse can be a faulty speed sensor
or just a bad connection.
Have you checked the fuses well?