Pool & Spa Logo

Related Topics:

C
Christine Posted on Jan 20, 2019

Power light flashing on autochlor salt water chlorination SMC 20A

Check cell for calcium maybe shorting out transformer

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 06, 2008

SOURCE: l63 Salt light is flashing

goes for short time and 2 ljghts flash the red salt light wont go on

Ad

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 23, 2009

SOURCE: I have an intex salt water chlorinator and I have

Here is the website for all manuals! http://www.intexstore.com/default.aspx
All are dowloadable. Good luck!

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 06, 2009

SOURCE: Intex salt water chlorinator not producting chlorine

You can test if the 8110 is generating any chlorine by taking a water sample directly at the pool return. You can invert your container so it stays filled with air until you have it positioned in front of your return. Make sure your test chemicals are not expired and test the sample. You should get a high reading if the 8110 is producing any chlorine. If it is producing chlorine, you may want to make sure you have the correct level of Cyanuric Acid. In my pool, if the Cyanuric Acid level is low, the chlorine level drops to zero quite quickly.

If the sample indicated your 8110 is not producing any chlorine, I would check to see if you have approx. 24V DC between B+ and Gnd on the screw terminal strip on the main circuit board. The transformer supplies two voltages to the 8110. One voltage powers the electronics and the other powers the electrolytic circuit. So it is possible for part of the unit to work if one voltage has failed.

Anonymous

  • 297 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 09, 2009

SOURCE: I have an intex chlorinator and an intex 24' x 48

high chlorine can cause problems too it will give false readings for your ph and alkalinity.
The most important thing to remeber is that there is a sequence to follow.
First buy a test kit for salt about 11 bucks for 10 tests. you need to have the ppm's at 3000
if it is to high drain 20% water re-fill and filter/curculate for 6 hours then test again. once at 3000 then go for your chlorine it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 with a test kit now with those 2 in line go for ph adjustment ph should be as close 2 7.6 as possible. Ph will cause more problems like cloudy water or algea more than anything else.
another thing you need to realize is that the intex salt system sucks. Once you set it for the # of hours to chlorinate you are basically guessing as to what is needed. Yes there is a guidence chart as to hours to run but it is over kill and lets too much chlorine be generated start with 3-4 hours of generating but remember also that at 4 hours generating that is nowhere near enough filtering
you will need to shut power off get it out of sleep mode and continue to filter
on avberage a pool should be turned over 3 times a day my pool 7000gl and the 2000gph all in one intex salt pump needs run at least 10 hours a day alone without the chlorinator
my pool only 18' so with your total gallons it will be longer
one last thing to consider is that when in chlorine generating mode the filter slows down because of all the electronics. You can not hear it happen but if you put your hand in front of the discharge you can tell

Anonymous

  • 297 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 13, 2009

SOURCE: CLOUDY SALT WATER POOL

salt does not solve your problem.
People do no realize that all the salt does for you is that it eliminates having to pour regular chlorine in.
Everything else stays the same as a normal pool with just plain ole h2o

The dilema is that intex filters are to small for the job that needs done especially in your case now that you have the dreaded green monster

your solution is to first get it cleared up
shock your pool with 2 gallons of liquid chlorine and then filter filter filter
You will need to brush the dead algea and vaccum once or twice a day for a couple of days and you must clean that cartridge 3-4 times a day with the garden hose
you will be surprised how much green it will trap

once pool starts to clear and the chlorine level starts to come back down from Mars you can start using your generator again.
you will need to find the amount of time thatorks for you but 3-4 hours will not cut it in the hot weeks

Chlorine consumption is due to #of bathers, heat ,sun, rain so any given day will dictate a different amount of generation needed keep it high so you do not get algea again about 3.0

you also got algea because you were not stiring up the pool enough you again need to filter filter filter every day
try to find some of my other postings with more specifics

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Cant adjust the Chlorine output level

Perhaps I will sound too banal, but have you tried to contact the master?
Nov 12, 2018 • Pool & Spa
0helpful
1answer

No flow is red and no chlorine lights indicating chlorine

I assume you are describing a salt system.
Ensure all baskets are cleaned out, filter is clean and proper flow of water.
Check salt cell for calcium buildup.
Beyond that it could need a flow sensor replaced.
Feb 26, 2015 • Pool & Spa
0helpful
1answer

Salt water system light green, no error code, timer counts down... but no chlorine... Help!

There is a small wire mesh inside the unit that measures the chlorine/salt ratio. If it is a few years old it will have **** and calcium buildup. Take the end off, and clean the mesh.
0helpful
1answer

Low salt

The salt chlorinator cell should be cleaned with a proper cell cleaning fluid. Your pool surface may coat the salt cell with calcium and unless this has been removed it will not generate chlorine efficiently no matter how much salt you add to the pool water.
When the salt cell has been cleaned properly then the amount of salt in your pool may exceed then recommended concentration and it will overload the power supply to the salt cell and the salt concentration will need to be reduced.
0helpful
1answer

Excessive Scale build up on the Chlorine generator Plates. I Have to clean them every day.

Your water is WAY out of whack ... Please check all the chemicals including: Chlorine (ideal is 4 ppm), pH (should be 7.4), Alk (should be 100), Cyanuric Acid (outside pool only)(should be 60 to 80), Calcium (should be 350). Check the balance (see your pool supply company for the procedure to check). Get your salt to around 3400 ppm ...

If your calcium is high, the only way to reduce it is add water with calcium of a known low content of Calcium. If you have too much salt ... you will, again, have to dump water to get rid of the salt.

What about metals? Have you removed the metal from your water? Let the chlorine go to zero and add a sequestering agent ... follow the instrucitons on the bottle. You should add water only through a "bobby sox" filter to keep metals to a minimum.

I hope this helps you ... thanks for using FixYa.com
0helpful
1answer

No light on cell status on my chlorine generator

What brand of salt water chlorine generator do you have?
Have your water tested professionally at a pool store. Balance the pool water chemistry. Check the electrolytic cell for any calcium deposits on plates and follow manufacturer's instructions to clean.
Mar 18, 2009 • Pool & Spa
Not finding what you are looking for?

236 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Pool & Spa Experts

Jay Finke
Jay Finke

Level 3 Expert

1397 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

David Spradling
David Spradling

Level 3 Expert

13524 Answers

Are you a Pool and Spa Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...