Could be improper voltage, bad heating element, bad control / timer, bad thermostat, burnt wiring, or bad motor.
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Stays Warm
Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.
SOURCE: help with a noisy Fisher & Paykel dryer
I have the same problem. Replacing the front glides (two glides cost under $20 plus labor and service call). The second time it seems to be more than the front glides. Service tech says that it is the blower moving back and forth on the motor shaft. (Because of a worn indentation on the shaft..). Therefore, he says that I must replace the motor and the blower--parts cost approx. $290, plus labor and service call. Ouch! Also says that the plastic front support piece is worn. More money! So, I am looking at a new dryer instead of trying to patch up the one I have (it's out of warranty.)
SOURCE: Fisher Paykel electric oven doesn't heat in Bake mode
Electric Oven: Repairs and Maintenance Electricranges and ovens are generally easy to repair, because there's not muchto go wrong and there's not much you can do. Most repairs are actuallyreplacements, a matter of unplugging the old part and plugging in thenew. Most of the malfunctions that affect electric ranges involvefaulty heating elements.
Caution: Beforedoing any work on an electric range or oven, make sure it's unplugged,or turn off the power to the unit by removing one or more fuses ortripping one or more breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel. If the range is fused at a separate panel, this panelmay be located adjacent to the main panel or in a basement, crawlspace, or other location. If there is a grounding wire to the range,disconnect it. Make sure the power to the unit is off.
Servicing Fuses
Ifthe range or oven is receiving power but doesn't work, the unit mayhave its own fuse or circuit breaker assembly. This assembly is usuallylocated under the cooktop of the range. In some units, lift the top ofthe range to gain access to the fuse assembly; or lift the elements,remove the drip pans, and look on the sides of the cabinets. Inside theoven, look to the back to spot the fuse assembly.
Ifthe unit has this additional fuse or breaker system, components such asthe oven light, the range heating elements, the timer, and aself-cleaning feature may be separately fused.
If thesecomponents or features fail to work, don't overlook the possibilitythat the fuses have blown. To replace a blown fuse, unscrew the oldfuse and install a new one of the same type and electrical rating. Ifthe unit has circuit breakers, push the breaker or reset button, whichis usually located on the control panel.
Replacing Range Heating Elements
Whena range heating element burns out, it's easy to replace. But before youdisassemble the range to check or replace an element, make sure therange is receiving power. Here's what you can do:
Step 1:Check the power cord, the plug, and the outlet. Then look for blownfuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel.
Step 2:Check the fusing system inside the range. If the circuit is broken,restore it. If the range is receiving power, go on to check the element.
Step 3:When the element is cool, remove it. In most ranges, each top heatingelement is connected to a terminal block in the side of the elementwell. To remove the terminal block, lift the element and remove themetal drip pan that rests below it. The element is held by tworetaining screws or is push-fit into the terminal block. To remove ascrew-type element, remove the screws holding the wires. To remove apush-type element, pull the element straight out of its connection.
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove a range heating element, remove the screws holding the terminal
wires, or pull the element straight out of its connection.Step 4:Test the element with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1scale. Disconnect one of the electrical leads to the element and clipone probe of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isfunctioning properly, the meter will read between 40 and 125 ohms; ifthe meter reads extremely high, the element is faulty and should bereplaced.
To test a range element without using a VOM, remove aworking element from its terminal block and connect it to themalfunctioning element terminal. Don't let the test element overlap theedges of the element well; keep the element inside the well, even if itdoesn't fit perfectly. Turn on the power to the range. If the workingelement heats, the suspected element is bad and should be replaced. Ifthe working element doesn't heat, the terminal block wiring or theswitch that controls the element may be faulty. Call a professionalservice person.
Step 5:Replace a burned-out range element with a new one made specifically forthe range. Take the old element to the appliance-parts store; ifpossible, take the make and model information, too. This data willprobably be on a metal tag attached to the back service panel of therange. To install the new element, connect it the same way the old onewas connected.
Replacing Oven and Broiler Heating Elements
Electric oven and broiler elements are often even easier to test and replace than range elements. Here's how:
Step 1:If the oven element doesn't work, first check to see if the range isreceiving power. Don't overlook the fusing system inside the range.
Step 2: If the range is receiving power, set the timer on the range to the MANUAL position.
Step 3: If the element still doesn't heat, turn off the power to the range and test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale.
Step 4:Remove the screws or plugs that connect the element to the power.Remove the retaining shield, which is usually held by two screws, andremove the element from the brackets that hold it in the oven. Theelement is usually held in these brackets by screws.
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove an oven or broiler heating element, remove the screws or pull
the plugs that connect it. Remove a retaining shield and lift out the element.
Step 5:Clip the probes of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isin working order, the meter will read from 15 to 30 ohms. If the meterreads higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should bereplaced. If the element tests all right but doesn't work, the problemmay be at the terminals. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight atthe element connections.
Oven and broiler elements cannot betested without a VOM. If you don't have a VOM, take the element to aprofessional service person for testing. The problem is usually amalfunctioning element; however, you aren't risking much by replacingthe element without a professional test.
Step 6:Take the burned out element with you to the appliance-parts store tomake sure you get the right replacement part; if possible, take themake and model information, too.
To install the new element,place it in the same position as the old one. Connect it the same waythe old one was connected, using the same screws to hold it in place.Just about all the other components of an electric range or oven(including its door gasket, oven controls, and timer) are virtually thesame as the components used on gas ranges.
Most problems withgas and electric ovens or ranges are easier to fix than you think. Thekey is knowing how the various parts work and when to replace them.
Have a look at these websites to find parts and details :
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/appliance_range_oven.aspx
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/dataselect.html
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel Electric dryer wont tumble
I had the same problem,fixed it today with a replacement capacitor,cost $10 2nd hand (only cos I couldnt find a new one today and wanted it fixed now!)Unplug appliance, took off the back panel,underneath the motor on bottom left is the capacitor,remove the 2 wires, pull the capacitor out its bracket,replace,refit the 2 wires,replace back panel and Badabing Badabang!! My machine is working to full capacity again.
Pays to check out these forums doesnt it!!!
SOURCE: my Fisher paykel dryer does not heat
Thermostat Cutout – Manual Reset (Electrical)
Type SPST 30 Amps/240 Volts AC
Trip Temperature 212°F (100°C)
Diagnostic Mode
Entering the Diagnostic Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Auto Dry down button, then press the Power
button.
The dryer is now in level 0 of the diagnostic mode. After initial entry into the
diagnostic mode, the Start/Pause button operates the dryer as normal. Press
the Auto Dry up or down buttons to scroll through the fault levels.
There are several levels of diagnostics, most of which are used in
development and production. These levels may bring on various LEDs, but
the level of use for the service technician is that of the last fault.
Last Fault
To enter the last fault diagnostics, enter the diagnostic mode as described
above, then press the Auto Dry up button three times. The last fault will be
displayed on the drying progress LEDs
Conductivity Contact Impedance Check
To enter the conductivity contact impedance check, enter the diagnostic mode
as described above, then press the Auto Dry up button five times. In this
mode, touching damp clothes or fingers across the conductivity contacts will
cause the LED display to change. If the contacts, or the harness to them,
have gone open circuit, no change will occur in the LED display. This is a
useful method of checking the integrity of the sensor circuits.
To exit the diagnostic mode, press any cycle button.
Entering the Data Download Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Auto Dry down button, then press the Power
button. This enters the diagnostic mode.
(c) Press the Regular button.
Encoded data is transmitted serially out the red Auto LED, and is be captured
by an optical download pen attached to a PC where “Smart Tool” software
interprets the data to aid servicing.
To exit, press the Regular button.
Entering the Showroom Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Air Dry button, then press the Power button.
The LEDs will flash in a random sequence.
To exit, turn off the power supply to the dryer at the wall.
Tell me what sort of faults codes you can come up with and I will tell you what it means but in the meantime reset the limit and clean out the lint problem, open the stopped up vent. That dryer has to breath or that safety will kick out again. I have the manual
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
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