Trying to hem a flowy gown that has layers. I have folded it over, but the curves make it buckle in spots

It is not a special stitch, just a three thread overlocked seam with left needle but you do it with the blind hem foot and fold your fabric into a "z" shape, wrong side upwards and raw edge at the bottom to be trimmed by the blade as you seam. The folded edge is run against the "blade" of your blind hem foot to ensure even "bite" of the upper fold by the needle while the loopers form the seam around your raw edge below. Then when you finish and press the z fold open, you obviously want a little as possible of the needle stitch to show on the right side of the hemline. So you need to practice and adjust the position of the blind hem guide to ensure you are getting the needle to stitch just onto the folded edge.
I have only ever done it on knit fabric, as it does show and not very successful on a curved hem edge, straight edge is fine. You only want to catch a minimal amount of the fabric with the needle, lengthen the stitch length to 3 so there is less stitches per inch as it will show on the right side.

There is a tutorial here on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDJbFNZrCUI

You need a foot like this one so you can guide the folded edge of the fabric hem along against the white plastic foot. This is a generic style snap on blind hem foot, your machine should have one in the accessories that looks like this if your machine has a blind hem stitch included in its functions.

You fold the fabric into a upside down Z shape and run the top folded edge along the white guide with the fabric under the foot, hard to explain but once youve done it once, it makes sense.

You need to select the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even. But if not, you should be able to buy one from your Huskqvarna dealer or a generic one from www.sewingpartsonline.com may well fit.

You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions if you've never done blind hem stitching before.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment

here is a link to great info on sewing.about.com which explains this technique with images, http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm

In brief, you need to fold the fabric to be hemmed into a Z shape with the wrong side hem edge at the bottom of the Z.

The Blind stitch is either three straight stitches then a wide zig zag which swings to the left and catches a little bit of the folded edge, or three small zig zags, then one wide zig zag to the left to catch one stitch into the folded edge. The zig zag style has a little more stretch in it so works good on jerseys and knits.
You need to use the blind hemming foot which helps you to line up the folded edge and keep it at a constant distance from the needle. It will look like this.
Turn the little silver screw to move the white plastic guide left or right until you've got just a smidgen of fabric being stitched by the left wide stitch. Always do a practice sample first to get the stitching and guide set right. On most machines you can vary the width of the big zig by adjusting the stitch width dial a little.

You need to adjust the blind hemming foot guide so that the needle is just catching a tiny amount of your folded fabric because this is the stitch which shows on the right side of the fabric when you unfold the Z. So forget trying to hem satin or expensive fabrics this way, a hand sewn stitch will give a much better finish.

Blind hemming works best on a hem which is continuously straight on the same grain line, its not great for a curved hem. So if you've got a tiered skirt or the frill on a bed valance, it is fine as the fabric edge to be hemmed will be a continuous straight length. You can use it on a slightly curved hem for jerseys as the fabric has more give, and patterns will help to disguise the stitching too.

I hope that this helps you to sew your blind hem, 4 thumbs up if so.

You do not have it folded right, really study the picture, you fold it, then press it, now fold it again and sew along the edge of the hem. You have a very good picture in your manual, better than mine. I suggest that you go to www.singerco.com and under sewing resources there is another set of instructions on it. Once you do it, it will make sense, honest. I had a little problem myself with it when I first learned too. Just remember you have to fold it back about a 1/4" for your stitches and let it just catch the article you are hemming. There are some youtube.com videos available too.

it means there is a foot included that will straight-stitch a certain number of stitches then do a zigzag stitch to the left that will catch the fold of the fabric at intervals. The fold is made at the width of the hem you want. When you finish and straighten the hem out, the hem stitches will barely be visible on the top side unlike straight-stitching across the top of the fabric. There will be a "hem stitch" option on the machine and the foot will possibly have a movable guide that runs along the fold of the fabric to where your zigzag "catching the folded fabric" stitch is consistent.

try visiting this website www.sewingpartsonline.com.au

this is a generic style snap on blind hem foot, you fold the fabric into a upside down Z shape and run the top folded edge along the white guide with the fabric under the foot, hard to explain but once youve done it once, it makes sense.

blind hem foot is good if you want to machine stitch a hem but not have a seam showing. it will have an adjustable piece you can move left or right with a screw. but blind hemming works best on straight grain and not on a curve like a skirt hem unless its a knit fabric that gives. to make a blind hem press the hem allowance up then turn the main garment piece back to form a Z shape. you then stitch along the hem side with your blind hem foot guidr running along the top fold and use the blind hem stitch which looks like three little zigzags then one big zig far to the left onto your folded piece taking a little 'bite' - this stitch shows on the right side when you press the top of the Z back flat. so you need to adjust the foot position and how wide the needle swings to minimise this stitch showing. hope this makes sense and helps you with your sewing.

The blind hem stitch foot is actually just a guide to keep the folded edge of the fabric away from the cutters, and close enough to the needle, to catch a snippit of fabric to actually hem the item you are feeding thru the machine.
The trick is in the folding, and this vid clip is a good guide for the folding technique. Keep in mind that the 'lip' of fabric she is talking about will be overlocked, and your hem will have alot more 'give', providing a stretch that would be helpful for a stretch fabric.
http://www.ehow.com/video_4407404_machine-sew-blind-hem.html

If you want to do blind hemming you need to find the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even.

As the previous poster said, blind hemming is a little difficult to explain. You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions, getting a copy of a manual for your machine (if it doesn't have this stitch, then you're going to need to find another way) or getting a ibrary book out.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment.

Sorry, I don't understand just what you mean by "length to start". Length of what - stitch? hem turn-up?
Let us assume you are taking up a hem of a pair of pants. Try them on and put a pin where you want the hem to finish i.e. this will be the bottom of the pants. Take pants off, turn them inside out (careful that your pin does not fall out!) and fold the excess pants on that pin mark. The excess fabric should be on the outside, not tucked inside the leg tunnel. Measure how much it is from the existing hem to where you folded it over, let us say for the purposes of this exercise it is 4 inches. Your hem is to be 1 inch and you need 1/2 inch to turn under for a neat finish, total 1 1/2 inches, so you need to cut off 2 1/2 inches from the bottom of each pants leg. Fold 1/2inch at new leg bottom (wrong side of fabric to wrong side), press, fold 1 inch hem same way and press. Place pins every 2inches or so at a right angle to the hem edge. Pins should come out 1/4inch from edge of hem where the 1/2inch neatening fold was made (this is where I wish I could draw a picture!). Fold the hem back inside the leg tunnel. The pins should make the fabric fold under only enough so that 1/4inch of the hem sticks out beyond the pants leg. You will sew on this bit using the blind hem stitch (04 on my 7550). You might need to adjust the stitch width - not length - so that the straight part of the stitch goes along the hem bit and the zig-zag JUST bites into the pants leg fabric.
I do hope this lengthy explanation is of some use to you!