Kitchenaid KSRS25QAWH01, side by side: Is there a mechanical defrost timer, and if so, where do I find it? If not, is it part of a control board? Where do I find that and how do I test it? Thanks.

Here is the full parts schematic. It does have a timer. Put 'defrost'' into the search box. It appears to use a bi-metal strip.

https://www.partswarehouse.com/KitchenAid-KSRG25FTST01-Refrigerator-s/341367.htm

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If it is the electronic control (circuit board) you can't, if it is the older type with a defrost timer just turn the center part clockwise until it clicks, that will be the defrost cycle (20-45minutes).

The defrost timing is controlled by a pc board. This model doesn't have a standalone mechanical timer. If you have a defrost issue it is likely to be the element or termination sensor.

Are you sure your model number is KSRD22FKST ? Sounds like the defrost timer is defective yet the model number you have above your post shows a W10351625 Defrost Control Board
In the fresh food section above the top shelf the control panel has either a defrost timer or an electronic defrost control. Unplug refrigerator and remove the face of the control panel so you can examine the timer or electronic defrost control for burn marks or signs of heat. The timer or defrost control is most likely what is causing the problems you describedand changing will more than likely solve this problem, Let me know what you find, Thanks Sea Breeze
Post the correct model number if possible, Thanks John Tripp

First check to see if the fan in the freezer is running. Also check to see if there is ice build up on the freezer wall, if so then more than likely have a defrost problem. If so, then Your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The model KSRG25FK has a W10353224 Defrost Control Board that is also used as Adaptive defrost meaning it tries to conserve defrost to prevent repeated defrost that timers use, This tends to save wasted energy yet has its problems of its own because it is electronic and as always electronics fail. The word adaptive is used because the electronic defrost attempts to prevent unneeded defrost to save energy. I will try to explain while using Whirlpools Service Manual without provoking Whirlpools multiple defrost systems Copyright Material. If Whirlpool ask that I remove this Manual I will at their request. You will need free download to open this Manual. Click Here=> Defrost Systems Explained Thank You, Sea Breeze

Hi,

A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the freezer. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, cuts power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only while the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer continues to advance, power to the heating element is cut and power is restored to the cooling system. I believe your refrigerator is on defrost.

before i replaced the defrost timer again i would replace the defrost termonator . pt # 2000528 / this could cause the problem and the other is the main board pt 4288656 . both of these could cause this the bi metal thermo may not be reseting as most don't when going bad and the control board is more common and it's prob the problem .. mm / if you were to do a maintaince program you would replace the heater and the bi metal every 4 to 5 yrs as they do ware out .. and ck all fans for speed and air flow and clean coils at lease 1 a year . hope this helps mm ..

HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

TESTING YOUR DEFROST TIMER MODULE


To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically. Test the timer for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.

Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it should be replaced.

It doesn't and shouldn't matter as all fridges with a mechanical defrost timer will run through a complete refridgeration and defrost cycle according to the manufacturer's factory design.

It doesn't have to correlate to your local time, since all defrost cycles for self-defrosting units operate based on the manufacturer's specs for how often the unit needs to go into a defrost cycle to prevent ice build up in the freezer.

Your fridge will adjust properly, once it gets cold enough and begins the specified operation and pre-determined cooling and defrost cycling.