I was told taking out the door lock to test it will give me my answer, but that was fir testing for spinning only. It starts to fill then stops when it's be agitating. Timer still counts down.
You may have a problem with the water pump remember that all these components are relying on each other to function properly try searspartsdirect.com for any info you need
SOURCE: Neptune FAV6800AWW Just stops agitating or spinning
“”It seems there is a slight leak (I think because of the top seal worn out)at the bottom which caused the clutch to seize up and preventing the unit from spinning CCW.”” Yep I’m sure you may have a slight tub seal leak. Was the One-Way Roller Clutches upper bearing ring and Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way Roller Clutches bearing severely rusted up? Could you turn the wash tub CCW by hand with very little resistance before you started into the Clutch Maintenance?
“”I removed the clutch and was able to clean and lubricate it. I guess I had the bolt on too tight and the unit refused to turn.”” I believe you did not have the upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring seated in the Outer Tub correctly when you reassembled. It is a tricky fitment/reassembly process. If the ticking sound if coming from the area of the clutch pulley that tells me it still not quite seated properly.
I recommend to lay the Washer completely on its back with a 4x4 placed just ahead of the drain hose exit, the fitment process is a bit tricky. You have to get that upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring seat properly in the base of the tub. I believe the ticking sound is coming from the Clutch Pulley assembly is that correct. When you opened up the Clutch pulley was the clutch spring OK?
“”Now the unit refuses to agitate or spin.I have conducted all tests on the unit I could find. Motor test, spin test, drain test, quick cycle test, etc, but it returns no codes. On normal washes it will fill, start to agitate then quit. Also the counter stops counting down. (did this before the clutch clean-up). “” Ok so that was the original problem correct?
If so I agree with the fist forum member’s solution. The Control Board is expensive unless you buy like I do e-bay used with Membrane Console. I feel you have lost PWM signaling from the Control Board to the Motor Controller input. The Main Control Board is in the Console. Can’t rule out a Motor Controller for sure but I lean toward the Main Control Board also P/N 25001217 item 23 for all series. Before that I would try reseating JP4 on the Motor Control Board. The PWM input signal from the Control Board comes into the Motor Controller on that plug. This digital signal controls Motor Speed and direction via the Motor Controller. This may buy you nothing but no cost involved also check for corrosion on the plug and mating Motor Control Board connector. The Service manual will take you through removing the Motor Controller it’s a tight work area as the clutch. Remove the AC power cord to the washer before these checks.
AZ Control Board 25001217
JP 4 on the Motor Controller;
Good luck......Rich
The filter on your pump is probably clogged with lint and
stuff. You have to remove the bottom front panel, 3 torx screws
underneath. The
panel will drop and come off. Drain off the excess water from the hose
you
see. The white filter cover is right in front.
Get yourself a bunch of towels or a good big plastic bag to collect
water.
Unscrew the filter cover and twist the filter out. Clean out all the
stuff and
put it back in carefully.
Next: You can use Affresh to clean your front loader. Deposits
of soap and other such things can be
stuck around the inside tub of your washer. Try this product, it works
great on
all front loaders. Use quite hot water with the Affresh pellet with no clothes
and
run the machine through a cycle. Also
helps with any stagnant water smells. Have you cleaned out your pump
lately. Put the pellet inside the
machine, not in the soap dispenser.
Pl give me a good rating for the free help, thanks.
The flashing lights probably are a fault or error code. Sometimes you can diagnose the problem from them. The first thing I would do with the symptoms that you describe is check all the electrical for loose connections, Make sure all the plugs are fully seated in the control board as well as the components that they go to. Did you have an lightning storm lately. This could have blown the main control board. There is a method to diagnose each one of these that is listed in the service manual. You need to be fairly Savoy with electronics and ohm meters. Your service manual may be taped to the inside of your washer body, my whirlpool was.
SOURCE: Frigidaire GLTF2940ES2 error code E48. Did
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I understand you have a Frigidaire GLTF2940ES2 series washer with an error code E48, correct ?
If you've decided to go the route of replacing one or the other for your diagnostic procedure, the lock assembly is cheaper...and more likely of the two in my opinion.
Not having any way of being sure until you try it or test with an ohm meter...which you stated as not having is a disadvantage though (they can be had for less than $20 too).
**If you get a meter to test...the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.**
**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**
I'd also suggest ruling out any loose wires at the control. It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.
What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, recognizing an unlocked/locked door latch i.e.
If loose, push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )
If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch (95% of the time), so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...There should be a tech sheet underneath the tub assembly behind the access panel for test procedure of the switch.
**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequentlydrenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**
You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace.
As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.
1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**
2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.
3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.
4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Here is also a helpful link of the part and a video presentation to perform the change...
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-Switch-Assembly/131763202/1531974
Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.
Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Regards,
Macmarkus :)
Hi slogjlog - Often when a unit does not spin or agitate, it is because the unit cannot properly drain and dispose of the water and detergent solution. Does the unit make a humming noise? If so, the drainage hose/pump may be clogged and needs to be cleaned. If not, the washer may possibly be experiencing an issue with the door lock assembly, faulty pump, timer or control board not communicating correctly. Because it could be a number of any one of several underlying causes, I would recommend contacting a professional to properly diagnose and repair the unit.
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