SOURCE: power head
If you have checked the power delivery down to the powerhead and you have current running to the powerhead, then you likely have a burned fuse. There is a fuse built into the powerhead motor and is usually located on the field winding. This is not easy for a novice to replace and even most professional repair shops will replace the motor. It is possible to replace the fuse if you know what you're doing, but if the fuse blew, there may be a more serious problem, after all, the fuse is there if the motor starts to experience distress and the fuse will blow to avoid any electrical issues. The fuse can blow if something is jammed into the roller and causes the motor to labor heavily. If this is the case, then the fuse can be replaced safely. If the motor is burning out, then a new fuse will just blow immediately after replacement. What I do is take the fuse out and run the motor without it to see if the motor is still viable and replace the fuse if the motor proves to be o.k.
SOURCE: Dryer works but no heat, have a multimeter but need to know how to use and what to test
no heat at all? open front to access heater box, set meter to ohms. (unplug dryer), test for continuity across element connections. (disco at least one wire at each part to ensure accurate results for each check. then reconnect when done) some ohms is good here. if OL on meter then its open/bad. check each thermostat on side. they should all be 0 ohms. post results.
At terminal block in rear check voltage while plugged in. set meter to volts AC. each outside terminal to center should show 120 V approx. then together 240v. if 120 only on one side or one side significantly less than 120 then check outlet. Missing one phase/leg of supply can cause motor to run but no heat.
SOURCE: i get no power 110 or 220v from my generac 5000
The best thing to do at this point is to flash the fields. You do this by applying battery voltage (12Vdc) or 6Vdc to the wire that come from the brushes. The brush closest to the bearing is Positive and the brush near the rotor winding is Negative. While the generator is running apply battery voltage to the correct spots on the brushes. You should see an increase in voltage. If you do see an increase, then you will need that little board with diodes, that is your voltage regulator. Use rubber gloves when performing this procedure and stay away from rotating parts.
SOURCE: belkin f6c750-avr repair / Testing
You could be correct on the transformer. I'm kinda leaning towards a bad cell in the battery. Sounds like it will need replacing.
SOURCE: dewalt saw does not work
You more than likely have a break in the field. In order to test this you will have to take the field out of the motor. There will be 4 terminals on one end of the field. Test between 2 terminals of one side of the field. You should have continuity. Then test the other side. (By side I mean the windings will be seperated one on each side.) The most common problem with these saws is that the field wire at the terminal comes loose from overheating. You may be able to scratch the wire up a little (because it has epoxy on it) and then solder it back to the terminal. (Originally the wire is pressed into a slot in the terminal, but this will be broken, so you will have to solder it for it to make contact and stay) It will save you some money from having to buy a new field. Eventually though you will have to replace the field and make sure that there isn't a running short between the field and armature that caused the overheating in the first place.
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Should have 12v at brushed check cap if working if not change with same value also check if have bridge rectifier
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