I cleaned and greased the wire feed motor, rollers and mechanism, and replaced earth clamp, and weld nozzle, Wire feeds continuously and smoothly when trigger is depressed with no welding, but gives about 5mm of run, and then stutters and jumps thereafter, with no continuous run of weld when attempting to weld a run. Have blown out all dust etc from the transformers and electrics .. but to no avail. There does not seem to be any break in the wiring .. Feel like tossing it under a truck. Had a similar machine years ago, and was able to run beautiful welds..... Using 8mm gasless - fluxed - wire with 8mm nozzle.
What is the input current, (amperage), draw of the unit? Is the outlet wiring that it is plugged into of sufficient size to supply full power to the unit? For example, if you are in the U.S. and the unit runs on 120 volts, if it draws say, 18 amps but your outlet is wired with 14 gauge wire, The voltage drop under the load of welding, which is nothing more than a dead short, might be below the minimum, operating voltage of the wire feed motor. If my guesses of these values are close or correct, an outlet wired with even 12 gauge wire would be close to the edge of it's limits. If it were my setup, I would have a dedicated outlet wired with at least 10 gauge wire which, at a reasonable length, is good for up to 30 amps. If the outlet that this is plugged into has 2 outlets, plug an AC volt meter that is set to something above your local power into the second outlet at the same location, 120 or 240 VAC. Then weld something while someone watches the meter. If it is 120 volts but drops to 100 or 90 volts or if it's 240 volts but drops to 200 or 190, then your supply wire is too small. Think of it as trying to feed a garden hose with a fire hydrant. This condition will not necessarily blow your circuit breaker either. If it is fused at 15 or 20 amps, 1) You aren't welding long enough to build enough heat to pop the breaker and 2) if this outlet is a fair distance from the fuse / breaker box, it would be a good bet that a lot of the heat needed to pop the breaker is being built up inside the wall in the wire's resistance rather than at the breaker where it is needed. Good luck.
SOURCE: northern tool brand wire fed gasless welder feeds wire fan work no welding?
You need to have the ground attached to what you'll be welding on. Make sure there isn't anything on the end of your wire. Also, if your voltage is all the way down it won't do anything either. Oh, one more thing, make sure you have a contact tip on the end inside the cone. That will be the copper thing the wire goes through with a really small hole. I know some of this sounds pretty obvious but if I hadn't done these things at least once.....I wouldn't know what to look at either. I also don't know your experience level and want to cover all avenues. Hope you find it!
SOURCE: Campbell Hausfield wire welder feeds after trigger release!
has it done this before some wire feed welders the cheaper ones have hot switches mean that push wire all the time stuped i know but if it is not a hot switch than it is making contact some how and it could be inside the wip check it as best you can or take the wip in to where you got it from
SOURCE: when trying to weld,the feed wire gets red hot
There are loose connections and / or a short in the gun.
sounds like the gun is grounded, and the gun is welding the wire to itself.
SOURCE: Welding 20 gauge steel and
Ok, well first check you earthing lead? This is a prime cause of bad welds. Check all electrical contacts and connections to that and the unit as well too.
Check the trigger switch, wire path, & feed, too.
However if you have done all you say, then I must wonder if indeed you don't have a regulation probelm in the circuit of the welder? I have seen similar things like this before when a OP Amp in the feedback circuit was faulty, under load. It may indeed pay to have the unit serviced and hopefully while performing the service and re-calibration, the, any, problem will be detected and eliminated?
ALWAYS UNPLUG & Remove the hood or motor cover. There's probably anywhere from 2 to 8 screws. *Now vacuum the dust from around the motor and drive mechanisms. What you can't get to with the vacumn, use a small cloth or brush. A clean motor doesn't become clogged and overheat. *After you have cleaned around the motor, look for any grease fittings, these are usually found on commercial grade units, but your's might have some also. For those of you who have never seen one, they are about the size of a pencil eraser and have a hole in the end. they are usually found on bearings. If you don't have a grease gun you can buy a small gun and grease at your local auto parts store for less than $10.00.If your unit is chain driven, clean the chain of excess dust, and apply a small amount of grease to the chain, also grease the drive chain and elevation chain as necessary. Use white lithium grease if available.Check all drive belts for wear, look for cuts and nicks, and replace as needed.
*Raise the belt and inspect the underside for wear. If it looks worn or burned you need to replace the belt.
*Wipe the deck and underside of the belt with a soft cloth, should lubricate the walking deck at least every 6 months with ilicone spray or gel or wax. Check your owners manual for what the manufacturer recommends.
Repair of Your Treadmill
Walking belt moves, but there is a loud grinding noise.
Loosen the belt and see if the noise goes away, if it does you may have a bad front roller. Sometimes you can spray the bearing in the roller with a lubricant like WD40 and this will solve the problem, but you may need to replace the roller.If the noise does not go away then the motor bearings are probably bad and you will have to replace the motor.
You can visit his treadmill website at:http://treadmills.cc/
Thanks for the rating
Good luck
This seems to be fault in the transport of the paper in the rollers. So if you have used any adhesive sticker printing, it is possible that some glue has got clogged into the rollers. If not there can be some jammed paper in the rollers or the mechanism.
So start this work only if you are mechanically able with the right tools.
Remove the covers to get access to the mechanism . Remove the motor drive assembly , the fitting of the motor to the mechanism. Once this is removed the rollers can be turned manually so that you will be able to feed a paper to see the progress of the movement while studying if there is any obstruction or damage to the paper.
There is a in-detect sensor, usually an opto-coupler , make sure this is not clogged or dirty as this IR detection feeds the signal to the processor for starting the motor drive feed.
Reassemble but make sure the rollers are aligned to be in equal gap to feed the paper without a side pull. Now you must print and see if the fault has changed. If not repeat the above work to confirm the area of obstruction.
Remove printer , uninstall software ,then reinstall and connect printer.
390 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×