SOURCE: Tefal Aquaspeed 160 Steam Iron
I have been able to rest the iron by simply moving the iron back and forth. try it.
SOURCE: Iron No Longer Heats Up
Recommended solution, gently shake, did not work.
Considering the iron was at a minimum two years old, I decided to purchase another Rowenta. I found the recommended solution documented on a FAQ sheet enclosed with the new iron.
I actually own another Rowenta iron (I now have three) that has the same issue. I will send one iron, the one manufactured in Germany, to a Rowenta Service Center to see if can be repaired - it was the first Rowenta iron I purchased and it provided several good years of service.
SOURCE: Rowenta iron will heat up and then shut down. Have
Irons use a potentiometer and thermister to control the heat on the element. One of these components is bad and needs replacing. If the iron's still under warranty, get another one. The cost of service would probably be as much as a new iron, but you could call an appliance repair shop to check.
SOURCE: I have a rowenta advancer DZ9080 iron that the
Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to troubleshoot your iron and figure out what is wrong with it.
Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5300202-electric_iron_not_heating_up_or_not
heatman101
SOURCE: D2030 Iron: Iron keeps shutting off...like auto-shut off is al...
OK... quick disclaimer. Me = not responsible if you break your iron, set something on fire or electrocute yourself. If you're not sure what you're doing, find a qualified person to help or trash the iron. Getting hurt isn't worh a $40 iron.
That said, mine had the same issue... in my case, was a break in the cord.
Before you do anything that follows, don't forget to drain the iron. You'll have a big mess if you don't. :)
Accessing the cord connections requires a security screwdriver. You can buy one at a hardware or electronics repair store. OR if you're chep like me, make one yourself by using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a notch in a thinner blade, flat blade screwdriver. Any cheap flatblade screwdriver will do (eye protection recommended since you'll be grinding metal).
Unscrew the two screws in the back. Once removed, the colored plastic cover can be removed by inserting a screwdriver near the tabs that hold the cover in place and prying a bit.
Removing the inner cover is a little trickier.
The handle under the power indicator light (the red one) has an upper and lower section. Squeeze the lower portion of the handle directly beneath the light pretty firmly. You'll notice a slight separation between the back section and the handle. The back section is what you'll remove. I removed mine by squeezing the handle and pulling the power cord straight backward (I know that sounds odd, but it was the easiest way to get some leverage, plus it's already broken, remember???) Don't pull super hard, but firmly enough to separate the back panel from the back of the iron.
Once the back cover is removed, it's a pretty simple cord change. As there are a few more wires than some people are accustomed to, I recommend writing down the wire combos so you can reattach everything as it was.
If you have difficulty removing the crimped wire nuts (the plastic covers), you can use a pair of pliers to squeeze opposite the crimp and they'll open up enough to allow the wires to slide out.
From there, reassemble... opposite of the disassembly order.
Mine worked perfectly after this quick fix. Hope yours does too. Good luck and be safe!
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