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Joe gaines Posted on Dec 08, 2018
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The heating element in my lg electric dryer test good for continuity and I have 120v on all three wires. Is it possible for the element to test good and still be bad.

1 Answer

Steve Pack

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  • LG Master 7,126 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 09, 2018
Steve Pack
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Joined: Oct 15, 2013
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Yes it is possible that element is bad, before I started throwing parts at it would check hi limit disc. Also if you have 3 wire a 240 will read 240 between the hot wire and from neutral or ground 120. 120 will measure 120 between neutral.

  • robert Dec 09, 2018

    Each leg will be 120 volts.

  • Steve Pack
    Steve Pack Jan 23, 2019

    An heating element can measure good when it is cold but when it heats up the element will open and no current flow, when it cools enough the cycle continues. The element will fail.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 11, 2009

SOURCE: heating element continuity?

Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.

Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.

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Anonymous

  • 188 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer runs with no heat

An open circuit does mean the element is bad and will need to be replaced.
Just in case though, make sure your meter is working properly by touching the leads together. You should get a reading.
Good luck!

Anonymous

  • 1606 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 01, 2009

SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat

Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2009

SOURCE: Maytag performa dryer PYE2300AZW

my dryer was working perfectly fine, but I think i had way too much laundry this day. anyhow, it just stopped working. the weird thing is the timer still runs I turn it to 90 and then it stops at 0. WEIRD!! i had my dad and husband take it apart, but of course we are reading the blueprints and tring to find matching numbers but no can do. we give up. HELP
sign the Dryer Monster

Anonymous

  • 1531 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 20, 2011

SOURCE: My Kenmore 400series 6942 electric

This is the most common locations for thermal fuses and heating element on Whirlpool,Kenmore,Estate dryers. seth765.jpg if there is no heat then one of the thermal fuses is bad you will need to check the continuity on them and replace the one that does not have any continuity

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My Samsung electric dryer runs but doesn't get hot

Clothes dryers usually have one of three issues when they fail to heat.
Taking a good electrical meter ( with ohms readings), check first the heating element.
If it checks good, then try all of the thermostats and the fuse. (There may be as many as 5 thermostats.)
You will need to unplug the wires off of each of these items that you are testing before you test them.
Whilst you are looking, be sure to test the two hot leads from the circuit breaker box, because one of the two hot lugs is for the machine operation, one is for the heating element.
God bless your efforts.
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Cabrio electric dryer WED6200SW1 runs but will not heat up. What do i need to do? And how?

hay Aric , it sounds like you have bad element or fuse . test as follows unplug wires to the element and turn unit on if you get 120v to the element replace it if no power then it got to be a fuse or the door switch test them for continuity , good luck APPLIANCES R EN
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LG electric dryer is not heating. Electric coils test for continuity. Any suggestions?

There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating. UNPLUG DRYER BEFORE TESTING ANYTHING.
1- power- Test the receptical to make sure you are getting 220 volts. To do this you need and voltage tester. Both legs should pull 110 and together 220. If one leg is not pulling any power than your breaker is half tripped. Reset breaker to cure your problem. If problem persist it is in the breaker or receptical.
2- cord- To test this unplug dryer. Take the panel covering the cord connections off. Remove cord entirely from dryer. Test each leg for continuity. If any are not showing cont than replace cord.
3- Themal fuse- To test this remove access back access panel on some front panel. By the blower housing there is a fuse white thin sliver or round fuse with 2 wires going to it. The one with 4 wires is your low limit cycling thermistat. The thermal fuse is near that. Disconnect the 2 wires and check fuse for continuity. If meter shows cont fuse it good. If not replace fuse.
4- Hi Limit Thermistat- test same way as thermal fuse. On the heating element housing at the bottom are 3 wires running to a fuse. Test the left and right. The bottom is attached to one of the sides.
5- Thermal Cutoff- Test same way as thermal fuse. This fuse is near the top of the heating elemnt above the Hi Limit. 2 wires with usually plastic covers on them.
6- Heating Element- Below high limit 2 wires. Test for continuity.
If all these fuses are good than you may need to call a technician. The motor may not be getting to the right rpm to activate the senfrigrial switch in the moter. Timer or control board may be out.
7- Motor- If
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No heat

Hi.

If it is turning but not heating, check the thermal fuse if present. The fuse is also tested checking continuity. If the fuse is OK, check the thermostats in the heater assembly. If the thermostats are good, they will read zero or very low impedance at room temp.Depending on the model there are two or three thermostat/thermistors in the appliance.
If even thermostats are OK, check heating element. It must have continuity.
If element is OK, check wiring, then fan, then go for the timer control.

Here all parts.

Regards.

Ginko.
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Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...

hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

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The dryer is opertaing but is not heating

could be three things. 1st) 240v should enter the unit. if 120v is missing then the unit will run but will not heat (on an electric dryer).
2nd) the thermal cut-off is not showing continuity and therefore not allowing voltage to travel to the element. 3rd) could be the element itself not showing continuity.

If it's a gas dryer, it's most likely a thermal fuse or the ignitor. please let me know if i can be of better help. good luck :)
Jul 14, 2009 • Dryers
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I have a maytag performa electric dryer that's giving out no heat. model# pye2300ayw. what do I do?

could be three things. 1st) 240v should enter the unit. if 120v is missing then the unit will run but will not heat (on an electric dryer).
2nd) the thermal cut-off is not showing continuity and therefore not allowing voltage to travel to the element. 3rd) could be the element itself not showing continuity.
Jul 14, 2009 • Dryers
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Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

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How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

0helpful
1answer

Heating element continuity?

Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.

Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.
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