I know the secondary should be up in the k's, but I have no idea as to the exact range according to the factory. It's a CD ignition with a Orange(+) and Black(-) going to the coil primary, and both plug wires w/ resistance plug caps coming off the secondary. The caps alone should show some sort of value at least, not just infinity, not even counting the value of the secondary. The motor starts easy, idles fine, revs fine with the muffs on it. Put it in the lake and it idles nice and smooth, put it in gear, twist the throttle and away we go, 1/4 throttle it dogs out and has no power the rest of the way. Fuel circuit is all good to go, including filters and 100% gasoline, no ethanol. Any ideas?
It does seem like an ignition problem.
I don't have specs for your motor, but generally Resistance type HT (spark plug ) leads should show up to 10K ohms or less so infinity means a gap somewhere .
Primary side of the coil can be as low as 0.5 ohms and up to 100 ohms.
Make or buy a spark gap tester. Be careful not to hold the wires or tester. You would know that this is high voltage, but others reading this may not on first try.
Cranking the engine with spark plugs removed keep the tester away from the spark plug holes and any fuel. The spark should jump 5/16th" or more.
If it's only one spark that is weak then it's most likely the plug coil, but to be sure swap it with another to check to see if the weak spark goes with it, otherwise it's most likely a CDI unit. If all sparks are weak then it could be the CDI charge coil or the CDI unit. You would need to find the output specs for the charge coil to confirm which is the problem. Often they put out 150 to 200 volts AC at cranking speed
I hope that helps
SOURCE: 2004 Ford F350 diesel, changed fuel filters hard starting
Pull the filters and ck for plastic or o-ring in wrong place. Something is up in the filter.
SOURCE: 93 toyota celica gt. engine turns over but wont spark
My experience with Bosch ignition system (found on european cars) is the spark control is sent by the ignition module. The ignition module has to receive an input usually from a crankshaft sensor. This is usually near the crankshaft pulley on many cars. I am currently working on a 04 Toyota RAV4 and it has exactly that. If your sensor wiring gets loose or a bad wire then the computer won't signal for spark. This may not be your problem but it sounds like it probably is.
(By the way on my Alfa Romeo it is a sensor around the bell housing that senses the teeth on the flywheel) Good luck!
SOURCE: 97 nissan xe pickup with 2400 motor runs like grap
The ignition coil is part of the distributor assembly, weak spark will make it run bad, not a cheap part.
SOURCE: 93 toyota celica gt. engine turns over but wont spark
I'm going to guess TIMING BELT. Fairly common with this engine. Thankfully, they are a "NON-interference" motor so it didn't do any damage when the belt snapped. Just need to replace it. Should cost around $300-$400 depending on where you are. Good luck!
Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is zero point five and zero point seven ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.
If you suspect a malfunctioning ignition coil, check the resistance of primary and secondary windings. Do this when the coil is hot, and again when it is cold. Also measure from the case to each connector. The primary windings should have a very low resistance, typically from a few tenths of an ohm to a few ohms. The secondary windings have a higher resistance, typically in the 10,000 to 13,000 ohm range. To get the actual figures for a specific coil, check the manufacturer's specs. But as a rule of thumb, primary windings range from a few tenths of an ohm to a few ohms, and secondary winding may be 10 ohms or more.
If you suspect a malfunctioning ignition coil, check the resistance of primary and secondary windings. Do this when the coil is hot, and again when it is cold. Also measure from the case to each connector. The primary windings should have a very low resistance, typically from a few tenths of an ohm to a few ohms. The secondary windings have a higher resistance, typically in the 10,000 to 13,000 ohm range. To get the actual figures for a specific coil, check the manufacturer's specs. But as a rule of thumb, primary windings range from a few tenths of an ohm to a few ohms, and secondary winding may be 10 ohms or more.
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