Have you noticed a clicking sound every once in a while and is your compressor hot? It could be the compressor starter
Sounds like defrost system is working correctly. 10 F isn’t cold enough for a freezer. Make sure condenser fan at compressor is running and also evaporator fan in freezer. Also clean dust off condenser coils. If all that is ok, then you most likely have a sealed system problem.
SOURCE: Freezer defrosts too long.
Outside of HVACRH20 excellent advice, here a few stats about this model. The main control board will monitor the resistance of the evaporator thermistor. This is located near the top of the evaporator. This thermistor determines when the unit goes into and out of defrost. The bi-metal is redundant to the operation. It will terminate the defrost only if the thermistor fails. Check the values of the thermistor with the attached chart. Catriver..post back
SOURCE: Maytag MSD2356 Freezer frosts up quickly, fridge warm
If you jumped the defrost board and it went into defrost then that board is bad. I assume by "freezes up" you are talking about the evaporator is frosting up? That defrost board puts it into defrost automatically. If you have to jump it to get it go into defrost then the board is not doing its job.
Why were those parts changed? Was the compressor cycling on overload at the time?
If so, you should have first replaced the relay/overload combination and the see what happened.
SOURCE: fridge/freezer cooling inefficiently
Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.
SOURCE: MSD2456DE - fridge side warm
Forcing the frig into a defrost cycle may not solve this problem long term. The old fridgs had a sliding door which bled cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment which you simply adjusted to keep your fresh food compartment at more or less the proper temperature. This simple manually operated sliding door has now been replaced by a motor actuated sliding door that is controlled by the fresh food compartment thermostat. On Whirlpool side by side fridges, the door has, for some reason, been designed so that the sliding door itself will shear or break if the door encounters an obstruction such as ice in the sliding track. Those geniuses designed it so that the door will always fail in the CLOSED position. This means that if this door breaks, the door letting cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment will stay closed and not permit any cold air to enter the fresh food compartment and all your food will spoil. The stupid fridge, will continue to run and run because the thermostat in the fresh food compartment will continually call for more cold air, which is just not available due to the broken door. Eventually, the freezer coils will completely ice up and you will see frost on the outside of the panels that cover the coils. If the door is broken, defrosting the freezer will NOT result in any cooling of the fresh food compartment because the door is closed. To check, use a mirror to see if the door is open. The door is typically on the upper back corner of the fresh food compartment on the freezer side. It will have louvers on it. Using a mirror and a flashlight, you should be able to see if the door is open. If it is closed, using a small screwdriver, you should be able to move it open (unless it's iced up). If you can easily move it open with the screwdriver, the door is definitely broken. At this point you have two alternatives. One is to replace the unit and be very careful about too frequent door openings and overloading the frig with food that is warmer than room temperature. These motor controlled units are not cheap. I should know having bought three of them before getting smarter. The other alternative is to attempt to rebuild and/or repair the sliding door assembly. Dis-assembly is accomplished by carefully cutting off the styrofoam front with a box cutter or something similar. This will expose the door and motor assembly. You can either try and glue another piece of plastic where the readily identifiable broken piece was, or attempt to fabricate a whole new door from a suitable piece of plastic. In any case, finish the job by applying lots of silicone lubricant to the door and door tracks to keep it from sticking again. Simply taping on the styrofoam front is good enough till the next time. I hope this helps you with your problem.
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