SOURCE: whirlpool washing machine won't spin after rinse cycle
there is a coupling between the motor and transmission that has cracked. with the crack in the coupling the transmission cant spin as fast as the motor causeing the loud noise. replace coupling to solve problem
SOURCE: GE Washing machine cold water barely dribbles in
well the first thing i would do is take the cold line loose from the washer get a large bucket and open the cold line with the hose off and see what kind of pressure there is if very little need a plumber or in crese your well pump pressure check your screen while you have the hose off if all of this is ok id replace the washer water valves
SOURCE: Slow rinse cycle fill
take the hose off the cold water valve and check the screen on the water valve ,make sure the cold water is on all the way and the hoses are on the right valves get a water bucket hold the cold water line in it open the cold water valve to check the pressure
SOURCE: WHirlpool Waser model LSR8133HQ0 - tries to fill for rinse cycle
hellow my name is joyce and It sounds like you have a issue with your cut off valve that controls the water flow to your machine in between cycles, this is controled by your timer switch you may want to call technichian to repair. sounds like the only problem you have with the timer is on the rinse cycle not the wash cycle, but it defently needs to be fixed. if I can help you find a repair person please let me know.
thanks you and let me know if I can further assist you.
joyce
SOURCE: whirlpool washer model # LXR7244J01
A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.
NOTE: If your washer still goes through the normal cycles like it should (i.e., agitates, spins, etc.) and simply won't drain, you may have a drain pump clog, or in the drain lines somewhere. Verify your lid switch, first.
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