Do you have for sale new knobs? The knobs break on heat very often

Bummer deal! While that code response is not known by me, sometimes when a heat sensor fails, or a wire loses contact, the computer gives a code. Be care wiggling any live wires as a weak or broken wire will spark brilliantly. That spark may end the problem - or indicate that part is needed. A sensor sends signal to turn off or on the flow of electricity to control heat levels. When they fail, or a wire closes connection the computer does not know what to do, so it says, "Da," check this thing out, giving the code you see. Pursuing the checks stated will show which problem you have. Hope this works - as those sensors on electric rangers and ovens, wires, and sometime a wire break on the top, or plug-in point for elements are big trouble makers.

PS: Some knobs have a sensor in them that can fail. Of course an appliance person will check each point and may have the code interpetation.. A Tech visit cost about $75 for an estimate.

If The Burner lights and stays lit as long as the knob is depressed, but goes out after the knob is released then there is a failure with the thermocoupler or the valve itself. The thermocoupler can be tested once removed from the cooktop - as follows
Heat the tip on the thermocoupler with a match or lighter and measure the electrical connection (other end) with a voltmeter - it should read about 15 mV or slightly more with in a few seconds. If no voltage is read then the thermocoupler is faulty and should be replaced.
The valve coil can also be tested for continuity at while the unit is disassembled. If no continuity is found the valve is faulty and should be replaced
The small voltage created from heating the thermocoupler energizes the coil in the valve which in turn keeps the gas turned on while there is heat at the thermocoupler.
Some units actually reignite the burner if the heat is lost and the control knob is in the on position.

Hope this helps ....

If the light circle around the knob stayed on, then you have the same problem I just had. I purchased a OEM replacement switch via ebay for $38. Very simple replacement, but take your time so you understand how it works. It took an hour to install and works fine now. Here is the link to the parts list:
shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair Part List - CCE3401B.pdf

If you can, take pictures with your phone of how everything is assembled before you take it apart. It will save you hours of aggravation.

I must say, Jenn-Aire (Whirlpool Corp) was less than helpful. I asked for some advice prior to purchasing the replacement part and all they would tell me is they were willing to schedule an authorized repair shop to come over. The closest was a 2.5 hour drive each way, and the travel time cost was $85/hour. Plus the part at list price ($90 something) and installation was going to cost $600. Give me a break.

you can use any knobs that fit the shafts/ creda is very expensive . robert shaw has replacment knobs . but make sure the shaft size is correct . if its gas the standard ( D ) style will work .. mm cost afout 19.00 for a set of 4 .. mm

a company called Bromic/Ambro supplies the best knobs. You can contact them on their website. This of course should be done only if the knobs are out of warranty. Or else contact [email protected]. I think he is the sales engineer over there.

that happens when the controll knob rheostat becomes weak and break down internally you just need to replace the controll switch

Yes it sounds as if you have control knob probs ..did it work b4 or is it a new cooker ?

I agree...the knobs are a POS.......redesign needs to happen....

Push down and to the right to by-pass the safety feature designed to keep the kids from turning it on and those who are new to the feature.

yes , but that could be the manufacturers design or the wrong knobs