I have a U-Line ULN B198B-00 and the water won't shut off. It ends up filling the ice bucket and overflowing. Could it be a bad solenoid??

Hello John;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

Neither your ice maker or water dispenser work off your main control board.

There is only one reason that the ice maker will not fill and you water dispenser does not shut off immediately after the contact switch disengages.

Your problem is low water pressure. You have a bad water valve.
After time the water valve seals fail, metal form the water line or corrosion plugs the water supply valve. You need at least 60 PSI water pressure to shut off the water dispenser solenoid valve and at least 60 PSI to open the ice maker water valve and fight the long fill tubing resistance.


Check - Pull your unit out where you can get behind it. Turn power off to your unit. Turn the water valve off. With towels under the unit water connection and a large bucket ready, disconnect the water supply line. With the water valve shut off you will probably get a steady stream of low water flow. The valve is bad. If not, open the water valve with the water line in the bucket. Is the water flow 60 PSI? Probably not.

Use a hair dryer to completely dry the solenoid valve and electrical area before you plug your unit back in

You need to replace the valve.

Before you do the above. Just in case you move your unit check for a bend or closure in the water line.

There is not an adjustment. The ice maker dump arm has a cam on it that engages the water fill switch. switch is bad or ice maker motor has a bad spot in it .

At first I wanted to say it has to fill with water to make ice but I know you mean the ice bin is filling with water. You either have an issue with the water control valve leaking or your timer isn't working properly. Listen for the water to flow and when it seems to shut off look at the tray fill spout and see if it actually stopped dripping. If it continues to drip (not flow normally) then the valve is leaking. If it isn't dripping but the water in the ice tray over flowed, then the issue is either with the timer or the adjustment is incorrect.

Shut off the water to the dishwasher. Take the line off where it connect to the dishwasher. Get out a bucket (dishpan, etc.) and put the open line into the bucket, turn on the water. Does it have a good stream? If not the problem is in the supply coming from your house. If the stream is good, house water is fine. Connect the supply back up, find the electrical solenoid that the water feed goes to and disconnect the line on the other side of it. Try turning the dishwasher on with bucket catching water, when the solenoid clicks on is there a good stream of water? If not either solenoid is bad, or maybe there is a filter (screen) before the solenoid that needs cleaned. If there is a good stream after the solenoid, then the controls must be bad telling it to shut off too early.

does it have a float mechanism that senses the water level by any chance

Check water supply and pressure is. o.k (behind the fridge). The ice maker water solenoid is located at the lower rear of the refrigerator.Disconnect the tubing that goes up to the ice maker, and wait for it to cycle.You may have to cycle it manually.
If the solenoid buzzes but no water comes out, the solenoid is bad. Replace thesolenoid.
(Solenoid will get energized only when previous ice made cubes are not disturbing the shut off arm. Hence make sure you have emptied the ice bucket)

There three problem that will not make your ice maker to make ice.

If the water’s route is blocked or the solenoid doesn’t work

If the bail wire is lifted—the ice maker won’t make ice.

Your home’s water pressure must be strong enough to serve an ice maker.

For your ice maker to maker ice, be sure the bail wire above the ice tray is in the down position.

If the ice maker doesn’t make ice but you can see the arm swing into motion and you hear a buzz for about 10 seconds after it is finished, the water valve is asking for water that isn’t arriving. This means the valve and the solenoid are probably okay, but the water supply is not. Be sure the water supply line isn’t kinked behind or beneath the refrigerator (1/4-inch copper tubing is much better than plastic fill line).

Also,check to see if something has caused ice to back up around the mechanism—this can cause the fill tube to freeze, blocking the mechanism. When ice cubes are small and seem to be getting smaller, it generally indicates a frozen fill tube.

Check the water line that enters the back of the freezer for a blockage. Find the water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator or under the sink, turn it off, unscrew the copper line from the back of the refrigerator, put the copper line in a bucket, turn on the valve, and see if pressurized water pours out.

The water line attaches to a solenoid at the back of the refrigerator and then travels to the ice maker. The solenoid may be defective or may not be receiving power. You can try removing the sediment screen inside the solenoid and flushing it with water to clean it, and at the same time you can inspect any seals or diaphragms to ensure that they are sound. Unplug the refrigerator first.

Check the tap valve; a bad tap valve may cause the problem where the ice maker supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the “self-piercing” type). You can do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.

Follow this link. This should help with your uline not making Ice.

line ice maker model ULN B12115 not making ice

As crazy as this sounds, turn the temp control a little warmer (counter clockwise). On this model, this control needs to switch to harvest the ice. A warmer setting should fix this issue.

Dean

You can also go to:

www.u-lineservice.com

You've either got a bad timer on the ice maker or the water valve is defective. You need to verify that the timer is moving first. If it isn't try pushing in on the dial on the end of the ice maker. It is under the white square cover at the end of the ice maker, usually towards the door, but in some units it points to the left side wall. If it begins to run when you do that, then the timer is broken. If not then I would say that the valve is defective.