Has anyone replaced a compressor relay on this chiller? Looks like it is not designed for replacement, but if it can be done with a generic relay I would like to know. Thanks.

The fuse is in the engine compartment fuse box and is marked 'A/Con'. It looks like a Relay to me and as it doesn't have an amperage, my guess is that it is a relay. The different sites have slightly different variations, but the thing to check first is the relay. You mention 'heater coil', that is on the engine coolant circuit and only provides hot air. The AC compressor system has an 'evaporator' up in the dash and only supplies chilled air. I trust the AC job was done professionally with a Gas Recovery machine to create a moisture free vacuum before adding refrigerant gas. It can't be done at home. I wrote a Fixya Tip on it.

Hyundai Tucson (JM; 2004-2009) fuses and relays

Fuse Box Diagrams https://fuse-box.info > hyundai > hyundai-tucson-jm-2...

Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Hyundai Tucson 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009, get information about the location of the fuse panels inside ...

2005 Hyundai Tucson fuse box diagram

StartMyCar https://www.startmycar.com > Tucson > Fuse box

2005 Hyundai Tucson fuse box diagram. The 2005 Hyundai Tucson has 2 different fuse boxes: Engine Compartment diagram. Inner Panel diagram.

Hyundai Tucson 1 (ix35) - fuse and relay

FuseAndRelay.com https://fuseandrelay.com > hyundai > tucson-1

It is located in the left end of the dashboard, behind the protective cover. ... The fuses designated as C / LIGHTER or P / OUTLET are responsible for the ...
https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+hyundai+tucson+ac+relay+location

..

There are a few potential reasons why your chiller may not be shutting down even when it reaches the set temperature:

1. Faulty temperature control: If the Ranco temperature control is faulty, it may not be sending the correct signal to shut off the compressor and fan. Try replacing the temperature control to see if this resolves the issue.
2. Incorrect wiring: Make sure that the compressor and fan motor are wired correctly through the Ranco temperature control. If the wiring is incorrect, the temperature control may not be able to properly control the chiller.
3. Dirty condenser coil: A dirty condenser coil can cause the chiller to run constantly as it struggles to cool the refrigerant. Check the condenser coil and clean it if necessary.
4. Low refrigerant charge: If the chiller is low on refrigerant, it may run constantly as it tries to maintain the set temperature. Have a technician check the refrigerant level and add more if necessary.
5. Faulty compressor: A faulty compressor may continue to run even when the set temperature is reached. Have a technician check the compressor to see if it needs to be repaired or replaced.

Can you elaborate? What kind of a chiller is it? Recip, screw, centrifugal? Air cooled, water cooled? How many tons? What refrigerant? What are you considering to be an unsafe suction pressure? What’s the superheat and subcooling? EXV? TXV?

My point is, absolutely no way anyone can help a generic question on a complicate system such as a chiller.

Clean the filter in the back. It clogs with dust and stops cooling.

Do only if you are properly trained on live circuits.. Do at your own risk. Check the compressor's capacitor and the relay. Is the compressor getting juice?

This looks like a pretty good priced site for water coolers;
http://www.dhgate.com/wholesale/water+chiller.html
Good luck with your search

check the relay on the compressor

Here is a new control via e-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Paragon-A-706-00-Hvac-Timer-Control-/170621558465 ($99.00)

This is the chinese generic version of the timer:
R 8004-TMDE706SC Problem is.... it is so generic that you must sort out defrost time required periods 115V 230V or 240V.

I have to be honest... you can probably walk into any reputable applicance parts source and find a generic timer much cheaper. (Match them up) What is the model number of the compressor? Per the timer specs.. you should have a 1/3 hp compressor. The LRA (locked rotor amperage) number on the side of the compressor is probably around 21.7 Amps. The failures on older equipment are run capacitors, and PTC relays / thermal overloads. There should be 3 posts on the compressor. C, R and S. You should read winding resistance C - R and C - S you should NOT read resistance C, R or S to chassis ground. (C maybe if it is internally grounded) If R or S read to ground the compressor has failed. Again if you insist on keeoing the unit you can get a generic 1/3 HP Embraco (or another brand) compressor.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

THE COMPRESSOR TRIPS DUE TO TWO REASONS, FIRST ONE IS THAT EXCESS GAS IS CHARGED IN COMPRESSOR CIRCIT AND DUE TO THIS COMPRESSOR OVERLOADS AND TRIPS. THE SECOND ONE MAY BE DUE TO THERMOSATIC VALVE LOCATED IN CHILLER (IN SIDE CAR SWITCH BOARD/DASH BOARD). FROM [email protected]

replacing a start relay is very easy to do. usually its a swap the part wire for wire operation. in some cases you get a different looking relay but they normally have good instructions for the replacement part. if you'll post the model numebr fo your unit i can give you detailed instructions. thanks peyton