Defrost time How many defrost and length of time

1) Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/8145-work-image.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

2) Typically the 8145-20 defrost cycle is time-initiated and starts when tripper pin located on outer part of dial passes the time-of-day point.
Defrost cycle terminates or ends when pressure or temperature switch activates. This is also called the cycle limit switch.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/8145-20-wiring-600.jpg

3) So your situation sounds like the pressure or temperature switch is not working correctly.

4) The 8145 timer also has 'time termination' setting. This red tripper is located on inner part of dial.
Usually the 'time termination' is used as back-up system if the pressure or temperature switch fails so that defrost cycle will not continue melting everything in freezer.

5) To solve problem until pressure-temperature switch is replaced, you can disconnect wire on terminal X, and then set 'time termination' for correct length of time by experimenting.

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The older Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) boards - short L1 and TEST pins together (you can use the tip of an insulated screwdriver or short length of wire - stripped only at the ends). Newer ADC boards don't have a TEST pin. You can also force defrost by cycling the Cold Control 3 times within 6 seconds and leave it on COLD (this may work only for the newer ADC without the TEST pins).

switch for defrost is inside condenser your options are usually 30, 60, 90 minutes. you can not decrease times between defrost it is determined by a coil sensor it senses ice on coil and puts unit into be aware that heatpumps are only effecient down to certin temps.the switch you describe is length of defrost.

The defrost timer is probably sticking. Or... the 60F thermostat in the evap section is bad. The defrost timer is located inside the food section of your unit usually about 6 inches from the front of the chassis in the overhead. It has two tabs on it that will only allow you to rotate it in one direction. The next time it stops for any length of time rotate the defrost timer until the compressor starts. If it starts we are back to the same two things. Either the defrost timer or the 60 deg. F thermostat. Most often it is the defrost timer itself that is the problem.

In these new fangled ice boxs is what you call adaptive defrost control. Instead of the old tried and true defrost timer, brainiacs have decided to use artificial intelligence to determine defrost.
The basic pattern of adaptive defrost is:
COOLING,PRE-CHILL,DEFROST,DWELL,and POST-DWELL.
Hey I ain't making this up. The ADC (adaptive defrost control) Counts the number of times the doors are opened, the total compressor run time, and the length of time the defrost heaters were on during the last defrost. This method supposedly enables the adc to work nice in all kinds of conditions, whether hot and humid or cold and frigid climates. COOLING Mode will remain for an indefinite time or until defrost is determined by the micro-processor. When all systems are go for defrost the adc makes the jump to light speed by going into PRE-CHILL, this brings down the temps in the freezer to off set the defrost operation so that the food temp does not suffer dramatic temp rises. Pretty cool ain't it? If the ice box is in pre chill and the door gets opened then a DEFROST HOLD OFF will jump in and not do a defrost for several hours. If the door is continually opened at the end of 16 hours the adc is gonna defrost that ice box anyway. The defrost period varies but is a maximum time of 45 minutes including when the DWELL kicks in. Dwell is the length of time the ice box stays off AFTER the heater is terminated.
Then The POST DWELL will kick in. The post dwell will fire up the compressor and condenser fan but the inside fans will not run allowing the coils inside to cool down before them fans kick in and she jumps back into Cooling mode. I bet you would like to have a copy of GE's adc repair manual wouldn't you?
TECHNICAL SERVICE GUIDE

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I think it will work on either #1 or #2. One of them will make it defrost every 8 hours or whatever the timer says and the other connection will make it defrost when the compressor has actually run for that length of time. Did it come with instructions?

Between the freezer and fresh food compartment is where the evaporator coils are. Frost free refrigerators aren't really frost free at all. Every 12 hours or 24 hours, a timer turns on a set of heating coils in the evaporator to melt the ice on them. If your refrigerator is otherwise functioning normally (normal cooling), it could be that you simply felt the divider it when the unit was self-defrosting.

Most refrigerators go through the defrost cycle unnoticed. When the cycle starts depends on when you plug in or turn on the refrigerator. If you'd prefer to change the time of your defrost cycle, simply unplug the refrigerator for an hour or two then plug it back in. Every hour it's unplugged will delay the defrost cycle one hour. To avoid having to remove food from the refrigerator, you might want to do this over several days, but it's cumulative so each time you unplug it for whatever length of time, it further delays the defrost cycle that length of time.

Your refrigerator has no idea what time it is (unless it's an electronic model with a built-in clock), so setting its timer to self-defrost in the middle of the night is an exercise in trial-and-error.

The other alternative... That the heater is turned on all the time... Would DEFINITELY affect the cooling capacity of the refrigerator and you'd notice that WAY before you'd notice the heat coming from the freezer/refrigerator compartment wall.

The fan stops during the whole defrost cycle, there is a bi metal control that determines the length of time the heater stays on. This could be the problem, if the heater stays on for the time that is allowed by the defrost timer it will get too warm in the freezer. the bi metal is located on the evaporator.

Setting Defrost time, Place the start pins(screw pins) in the outer dial, at the time of day- When you want defrost to start. (8am-2pm-8am-2pm) 4 hours min. between hours.
Set the Time of Day, Grasp knob marked - Turn to set. rotate, until the correct time of day. Ever timer there is a power interuption, this will ahve to be re-set.
Depress and rotate the bronze pointer on the inner dial to the length of defrost wanted, - apx 30 minutes.
done.

savey73,
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa
supertechks