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Usually with thermoelectrics they either work or they dont. Not easily repairable unless you are a competent technician as the components need metering. Sounds like a heater element gone.
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The thermostat is stuck in the closed position and it will not open the circuit when cooling demand has reached the set temperature that it is set for on the thermostat. Defective thermostat. Replace with a new thermostat.
Cold air falls so unless your fridge has a fan the bottom is always going to be colder than the top. Raise the temperature by a couple of degrees, as your thermostat is reading the temperature at the top.
Normal cool temp 23 to 25 and heat mode 29 to 31. And regrading defrosting your pipelines no need any tray. You can insulate with Armaflex tube which is mostly used for best insulation. Hope there won't be further water leak.
Hi,the problem you are encountering is as a result of the fact that the thermostat which regulates the cooling temperature in the fridge/freezer is bad hence there is no regulation of the cooling temperature in the fridge/freezer section, hence the food in the fridge freezes up.
The solution is to replace the thermostat of the unit,here is how you go about it;
1.You have to disconnect the fridge from the power source.
2.Locate the thermostat at the bottom of the unit,at the top left corner above the condenser.
3.Now you need to locate the wire ends or wire harness and unplug them. 4.Replace the thermostat,reconnect it back,put the back cover back and you have completed the job.
Take care of yourself
this sounds like a possible restriction in the radiator itself. Start by checking the radiator hoses by, after it is warmed up, feeling the top and bottom hose for temperature change. The top should be hot being that it gets it water from the engine and then the bottom should be cooler than the top. If the bottom is cold, you have a restriction in the radiator. If the top hose is cold, than the thermostat is stuck. It is also possible to have a waterpump which is coming apart inside and not circulating water to cool. Try a good chemical flush and follow the instructions on the bottle and see if it helps. Let me know what you find and than we can move forward.
I suspect the cooler can only actually regulate one of those temperatures and the other one just drags along behind. Perhaps the weather is now warmer and the cooler has to keep the motor on longer to keep cool. The unregulated bottom temperature ends up cooler as a consequence.
Either that or the opposite effect is doing it.
The answer might be to find a 61 degree place in your house to keep the reds.
depending on age of unit, the problem may lie in the light bulb,well the door closing anyway, the newer unit s actuall will shut down all interior lights, in the evnet that teh door is left open for more then 2-3 min, so its possible that a light switch is not being activated so the uit thinks the door is open and has shut down the rest of lights, cooling however does continue normally.
I don't think you'll be able to do this without some modifications to the unit. The wine cooler is designed to blow cold air into the bottom section, and the top section cools down by spillover of cool air flowing between the glass door and the temperature control panel.
I guess if you could figure out a way to turn the panel that separates the top from the bottom you could make it work. You'd have to switch the temperature sensing leads on the thermostat inside that panel(that would be pretty easy) and you'd probably want to flip the LED indicators so they read right-side-up. The main issue would be that the screw holes for mounting that separator panel are all on the bottom, but when you flipped it, they would be on top with no holes in the walls to screw them into. If you are willing to do that, you might be able to make it work as you would like.
Good Luck!
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