How do i adjust the defrost timer after a power failure

Sounds like the defrost circuit of your fridge has failed. If you remove the back panel of the freezer compartment, you will see the evap coil encased with ice. Normally the defrost circuit will turn off the compressor and turn on a heater to warm the coil to about 45 degrees to melt any frost build up. After about 40 minutes the compressor will kick back in to keep your fridge cool again.

The typical failures are that the defrost heater burns out. If you have an older fridge, the defrost timer fails to advance, causing the fridge to stay in cooling or defrost mode.

If it is an older model the timer might be hanging up. Remove the timer and give it a few rapid twists and it may go a while longer depending on how bad the humidity is where you live. If it is a newer model then after 40 minutes or so defrost and dwell, the compressor and outside fan comes on but the inside fans do not. This is called post dwell. Both the fan and compressor must run at the same time. If the compressor don't run but the fan does, then you need to check the compressor relay and overload for signs of imminent failure:If the relay is fine I would look at corrosion on the board terminals.

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Find the defrost timer and turn it with a screw driver (will only go clockwise) until it clicks.n wait 10-15 min. If the defrost starts to work (Freezer will get warmer heaters kick on) the timer is bad. If not you will need to check the deforst heater (behind back panel of freezer) and thermostat (silver cylinder with 2 wires on the evap coil) The timer is eithr under the box behind the kick plate (clean the coil while you are there) inside the refrigerator (look in the top for a small hole with a funny knob) or back behind the frig near the compressor( clean here as well).

If it goes into defrost and defrosts, rotate the timer until it clicks again and the compressor should start again.

Most GE's have a diagram on the back that shows componet locations

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

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It might be but I would first check the condenser to see if it's blocked or if the condenser fan (if it has one) is not working. The "buzzing/humming/ticking" sounds you're hearing is the compressor trying to restart after it became locked down. Excessive pressures in the system or compressor overheating is usually the cause although sometimes the bearings in the compressor simply lock up.
Check to see if the fridge cycles on and off by the thermostat. If it doesn't cycle and just keeps running then the thermostat is bad and that can cause compressor failure thanks to "slugging". If it does then you want to check the defrost timer. Turn the timer's dial until it clicks into defrost and see if it comes out on its own. Check if the compressor has trouble starting after defrost. If it stays in defrost the timer is shot. If the timer times out and the compressor will not restart then the relay might be bad or, the compressor might be going bad.
A 3in1 relay/capacitor/overload might help out and give the unit a little longer time but sooner or later it will go.

It sounds like the defrost termination t/stat (located on the freezer coil) and the defrost timer have both been jammed on by the storm. A quick way to check is to locate the defrost timer (every model seems to locate it in a different position) look for a round plastic cover around 15mm diameter inside the fridge or freezer, remove the cover and rotate the timer clockwise until you hear a firm "click" then plug the fridge into the power & see if it starts (some defrost timers can also be located near the kick plate or near the compressor well) if the compressor starts (I'm such it will) replace both of these parts.

Cheers John.

This is probably due to the failure of defrost timer or the heating coil..Try this
1)The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.

The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
2)If this doesnt work then Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.

first thing I would do is remove the back or bottom to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils are all iced over you do have a defrost prolem. You ill need to locate the defrost timer and most times there in the fresh food section. Where on your model I cant tell you but it will have a slot for a flat head screw driver to turn the shaft. Turn it untill you hear a click. That will put the timer into defrost.Then check and see if the heater is working. if not you need to check the heater and the defrost terminator, The trminator is a small round disk with 2 wires on it. you will need to ohm it out to make sure its not stuck open. If it is thats your problem. If not ohm the heater. if thats good replace the timer.And are you sure the evaporator fan is also working? If it is not you will not cool the fresh fod section.There should also be a schematic maybe on the back of the unit or on a tech sheet in the back or behind the kick plate. Good luck