Led lights that glow when power is off?

sOMEHOW YOU BLEW THE 48 v PHANTOM SUPPLY.
Open it up and check power board voltages.
Replace regulator circuit and check for shorts on your mic cables.
PEACE---

Several possibilities. First use standard light bulbs until it is working. Some of the PIR have triac outputs which need a minimum amount of current to work. CFL and LED lights can be a problem with electronic switches/dimmers.

The PIR needs electricity to operate. The black and white wire are probably power and return, there is no neutral to connect to the PIR. Unless you can get a different PIR that does not need line power to operate you are out of luck. There may be some that can cycle steal power and would work but I am not familiar with them.

I assume the three way is a three way PIR and the lights that are flickering are electronic such as LED or CFL.

If you talk to one of the people where you bought the switch they may help you free of charge.

Good Luck

Any light flashin on the control board? If not then look for a small fuse blown on the board. See lights a flashing count them flashes

A sampling of various failure codes on a furnace:

Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

A sampling of various failure codes on a furnace:

Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Goodman have troubleshooting idiot lights on the board. Look for flashes and count em.
The flash explanations are printed on the backside of the blower cover on most models.
A sampling of various failure codes on a furnace:

Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

A sampling of various codes on a furnace

Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your Goodman furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=4044§ion=10103&minisite=10025
The Leviton page for Leviton 5613 does not have a troubleshoot.
Manual shows simple wiring diagram.
3-way switches will not operate lights if switches are wired incorrectly.
Check your ground wire is connected.
Leviton 5613 series is illuminated.
Check that both switches have 5613 number.
Swap switches and see if problem is inside switch.

Swylite LST100 timer has 4 wires. Red, Blue, Black, White
Timer has more wires than wall switch because timer has electric clock inside. And with + series Swylite timer, it also has led bulb that needs power.

Timer can replace ordinary on-off switch
-On-off switch has 2 screws, so 2 wires (plus ground wire) connect to on-off switch
-Three of the four timer wires are used when replacing on-off switch
-Red wire is not used, it is capped off

Timer can replace 3-way switch
-Three way switch has 3 screws, so 3 wires (plus ground wire) connect to 3-way switch
-One of the screws on 3-way switch is colored dark (it is crucial to identify the wire that comes off dark screw so timer can be wired correctly)

Lets replace on-off switch see diagram
Timer black goes to Hot wire
Timer blue goes to Load (light, fan, motor)
Timer white goes to Neutral
Timer red is capped off.

How to check which wire is Hot, Neutral and Load
Switch you are replacing has 2 wires > one is Hot, the other goes to Load
Remove these two wires. Separate wires so you can test. Turn on power. Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power. Test each wire to bare copper wire.
When tester lights up >> that is Hot wire >> please connect this wire to Timer black wire
The other wire goes to Load >> please connect this wire to Timer blue wire.
Now test for Neutral. Test Hot wire to other wires inside box. Neutral should be white. When tester lights up, that is Neutral. Please connect Timer white wire to neutral. IF YOU DO NOT have a neutral, you can connect Timer white to bare ground wire until you have time to drop a Neutral into the box.

Replace a 3-way switch see diagram
Three-way switch has 3 wires.
Identify which wire connects to Dark screw on switch >> and then please connect this wire to Timer Black wire.
Timer white wire connects to Neutral
Timer blue and red wires connect to other two wires that came off switch ... they connect to either one.

May be your computer motherboard wires connection get loose or getting moisture in wires. Or there may be some earthing problem in ur power switch. First, check the wires connection & tighten up properly. if problem persists, check the earthing by power tester. Check you RAM if it is properly tight in the jack.

There are a few easy fixes for this, first,

Clear the CMOS (Unplug the power cord, remove the battery, and (if it's an option) move the jumper J1 (it has three pins, the jumper covers two, move it to cover the other one), unplug everything external from the motherboard apart from the PSU and power switch and speaker, replace battery, powercord, and jp1, power up - what happens?