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"There is nothing in the Rules of Golf that prevents a golfer from switching to a different brand of golf ball (i.e., from a Titleist to a Bridgestone) on every hole on the course - so long as the change is made between the play of holes.
However, there is something in the Rules of Golf that says a tournament committee can impose such a rule.
It's called the "one ball condition" (in the rulebook, it's in Appendix 1, Part C), more commonly known as the "one ball rule." As you probably know, all Tour events are played under the "one ball rule." And any rules committee may adopt the "one ball rule" for its competitions.
"The "one ball condition" requires the player to use the exact same brand and type of ball throughout the round. For example, if you tee off the first hole with a Titleist Pro V1x, then that's what you must play throughout the round. You may not switch to any other brand of ball, nor even to any other type of Titleist ball. You started with the Pro V1x, so the Pro V1x is what you must use on every stroke.
"If the "one ball rule" is not in effect, however, golfers may swap out different types of golf balls at any point in a round of golf, so long as the change is made between holes rather than during the play of a hole."
If the game can't find all the balls on start-up it will hunt by kicking all the coils. If you look at the ball trough under the deck you should be able to see all 4 balls. If any are missing then they are stuck somewhere on the playfield. I they are all in there then use the buttons on the front rood to access the switch matrix display and check the switches. Most of the time you will find a ball or balls stuck somewhere on the deck behind a broken rubber or in a hole where the coil wire may have broken off. Don't worry about the settings in service mode. If you read the instructions on the display, you can't screw it up. Worst case you can always do a reset to factory.
The most likely cause (and the one I've always encountered) is the switch/controller nit wears out from electrical arcing that burns the contacts or temperature kills electronics on "soft" speed controllers
One cause for this is that one or both of the check balls in the piston are frozen in place. This can be caused by drying paint on the check balls or seats or, as is the case many times in our area, if you did clean the machine well with water without any airless conditioner in it, sometimes the water dries and leave behind minerals that 'lock' the check balls in the seats. Set the machine up in water and turn it on to prime. Using a hammer hit the pump head where the piston is working fairly hard. You are trying not to break anything but knock the check balls loose. If they come loose and water starts cycling through the system, let run a while to wash anything out before switching to paint. If this doesn't work, you may have to take the head apart to see why the check balls won't free up. It could be because of peices of dried paint that won't come loose by themselves.
ether your stuck in 4x4 or your switch is. look under vehicle at the transfer case. find the shift shafts (usually toward the top) find the switch, remove the wires, then remove the switch. Take an ohm meter and touch one prob to each terminal on the switch. if no ohms push in the round ball on the switch hold it and test again. (this will probably take two people.) if you now have ohms you have a complete circuit. the switch works. We are back to your still in 4x4. or you have a short in your wiring.
check vacuum hoses that run from engine to vacuum ball under battery then back to transfer case vacuum switch on top of t-case if they are ok it usually is the vacuum switch is stuck open. when you unscrew it from t-case the ball will be stuck in. replace switch
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