Oil based paint not drying

clean ceiling and use BIN primer (2 coats). Ceiling peeled from build of moisture, install a vent fan and have it wired to bathroom light. This way if light is on fan is on.

if the paint is ok it should dry BUT YOU SHOULD NOT USE DIFFERENT PAINTS WITHOUT A BARRIER PAINT BETWEEN painting systems they are desiged to attach to each other

factors for drying paint --drying time will take longer when using oil based ,high humidity,cool temperature, thick coat

Oil based usually 6-8 hours, best is overnight.

Bulls Eye should be oil or shellac based
& may not be compatible to cover with latex

Read the bulls eye label

I would shellac any knots,then prime with oil
based primer twice, in different directions,
then you can cover with either

you did not state what paint, on what surface, what is temperature and humidity.

paint usually do not dry if it is two pack and you used only part a (body of the paint) and did not add any part b (hardener). hardener allow chemical reaction to occur and creates then solid, this type of paint is often used on car bodies, boats, hard wearing flooring and similar surfaces. if this is the case, you need to strip and clean whole area, prepare it again, whip off with weak solution of appropriate solvent mixed with bit of hardener (about 1hardener to 25solvent by volume should be fine) rest it for 48hrs, fine abrade with 120 or 150 paper or screen and then paint again following instructions on the label. this usually involves two parts urethane based paints.

another - it can be oil paint - oil paints,, especially good quality (artist quality), based on linseed or cannabis oil, take up to few years to dry, they drying process is affected as well by humidity and temperature, if temperature drops below 10centigrade (50f) process of drying virtually stops, it will fully stop at about 2 to 4 centigrade (35f - 40f), humidity will greatly affect this process as well, very low humidity (below 10%) and very high humidity (above 80%) will hamper drying process, low by forming impenetrable surface skin and not allowing body of the paint to dry, high by preventing vapour pressure to evaporate.

please provide bit more info and then we may find better advice...

do not hesitate to ask extra - and do not forget to vote...

Usually when you have cracking on your windows, there's several variables including sunlight. One of the biggest problems is using the incorrect primer or a cheap paint. Contrary to what many believe, a primer that dries extremely hard is not ideal for exterior surfaces. Wood expands and contracts with heat, cold and moisture. A high quality latex primer, topped with a high quality exterior latex paint will give you the best results. It allows for flexibility but offers great protection. Some prefer an oil/alkyd based primer. This is fine as long as it's a slow drying primer. The quick drying primers have hardeners in them that don't flex well. Be sure to remove any loose and flaking paint before you prime them. There are places where you can cut corners with painting. I wouldn't do it on exterior paint. One last thing to be aware of- be sure it's not lead paint you're working with. That changes everything.

did you ever try to mix water with oil? what was the result? are you sure that you can cross the street without adult holding your hand?

unfortunately you need to remove all that paint, just drop few shovels of fine sand over, and scrape it... sand will adhere to the tp surface of the pain and will allow you to scrape it. after you scrape it off, use any degreaser or similar product to wash reminder off, leave it for few weeks to dry through and then in small patch try if it would accept latex pain, roll it very, very thinly and leave overnight, if it is dry (solid dry) after 24hrs and do not peel off, you can then use this paint on the rest of your garage floor.

now, i would advice strongly against painting garage floor with any paint except concrete paint (they are usually water based with strongly alcalic ph), and after that use concrete seal. this should give you long lasting surface, sealed from oils, dust, water and whatever contaminant you can imagine in the garage.

It depends on 3 things.
What you are painting.
Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
Oil-base primer: 1 thinner to 4 paint
Latex primer: use a roller and brush so you have a good undercoat for the paint.
Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

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paint thinner is about the only thing that could be safe for most plastics. but as its dry that will not likely work.
try some extra virgin oil or penetrating oil and rub it into the dots.
if you can get it to take the oil then it will come loose.
but you may have plastic damage anyway where they melded.