If you are trying to get the cooktop or oven working again the resistor is a red herring. It is only used to keep the arcing down on the main relay.
If the resistor isnt the problem then what is?
For the color bars I don't know. I think the problem will be in the UIB board (the small one off to the right inside the control panel if you are looking at the stove from the front)
I'd look at the ULN2803A chips as they are probably driving the color bars. For mine the whole power supply that powered that board was blown & I lost all control of the cooktop.
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SOURCE: Circuit board replacement for a Kenmore range model # 95792000
Yes and no, if you can get it apart, it is basically placing the wires on the new board from the old one.
As long as the board was not updated and it looks exactly as the old one does, you can see where
everything goes from old too new. Do each wire one at a time with boards next to each other, or
make a diagram of all the wires,color, and where they go. If you start and forget, you will not be a happy camper. Hope this helped,and please post back with any other questions,everyone is happy to help.
SOURCE: I must replace the oven liner on our Frigidaire
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Here is the 42 mb service manual for wall ovens:
http://emaservicetips.com/pdfs/481_18.pdf
The actual manual is:
318202104.pdf (
I did not download the manual and read it as it is 42 mb and I am currently on a very slow wireless connection. Let me know if the manual is what you needed. If not.. I will research and look yet again for you. I think this is the correct manual.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
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Did you ever find out which resistor it is I have the same problem?
Same problem here as well. Oven works but will eventually overheat with an F1 code
Mine is burnt as well. Bake has no voltage while convection and broil work fine. Could be relay but if anyone has schematic would like to replace r1.
Just to add, swapped the bake relay w convection since wife says she rarely uses it. Bake element works once again. If I can get specs for relay and the r1 resistor we 'd be like new.
Retread post and need to make a change, swapped out the broiler relay w the bake. Point was that the defective part for me was the relay for bake.
I don't know for sure if it is the correct colour code for this resistance, but I found someone with the same board and same issue, he had to buy a new one finally and came back to share colours code from the new board. Here is his answer: "Got the new part in bubble wrap packaging so gotta open it to find the resistor is red red brown black brown 220 ohms but nowhere to be found in town and no wattage value so ???gotta install the new one so I can cook again! Thanks again for your follow up JS "
Here is the link:http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/8czj...
you can use a red, red, black, black, brown with no issues. The one it comes with is a 221 with a 1% tolerance. So a 220 with a 1% tolerance is not a problem at all and they are very very common. I have changed the R1 on a few oven boards. A short in the bake element can cause this problem. the resistor is inline with the control voltage for the main relay. It pops and the oven won't work. seems like a diode should have been placed after the resistor to protect it from this issue.
its a 1/4watt?
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