What are the advantages of open-cell spray foam as opposed to closed-cell spray foam?

There is no question, but sounds like it doesn't run with air box closed. It isn't getting enough air and that is usually caused by someone saturating the foam that covers the filter by too much oil. Remove filter thoroughly clean it, wash the foam with gas, let dry and then lightly coat foam with spray WD-40 instead of pouring motor oil on it.

There could be two reasons
1. You are not using dishwasher detergent which is low foam compared to normal dishwashing liquids which are high foaming.

2. The rotating nozzles in the sprayer are blocked. This happens when you attempt to wash bottles with paper stickers still on them which dissolve and clog the jet spray nozzles. Look closely at the nozzles and remove stuck paper with a safety pin to unclog the nozzles.

Have you replaced the air filter? Without the air filter the engine is getting enough oxygen to support combustion. With the air filter it does not get enough oxygen. If you have not replaced the filter it sounds like it is time to replace it. If you have been "cleaning" the old filter and reusing it, small particles may be lodged in the filter, reducing the airflow. Is it a pleated paper filter or a oil dipped foam filter. If it is a foam filter, have you cleaned it? If you replaced it was it a store replacement or a piece of foam you obtained and made it fit? Foam can be closed cell or open cell , both look similar but closed does not allow airflow and open does .

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Purchase a can of spray foam insulation and then drill a hole in each end of the handle to match the spray tube on the insulation. Let the handle dry once the holes are drilled then fill the handle with the foam from one end until it begins to expand out of the holes. Once the foam has set you can trim off the excess and scoop out a dimple of foam from each of the holes. Seal the holes with a two-part epoxy but even if the handle still leaks the foam will prevent much water from getting in and the handle will remain buoyant.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

I would take a two-step approach.

1) Get one or two cans of polyurethane foam insulation (e.g. Great stuff). It would be easiest if the sink is not yet installed. If it is, get a bunch of newspapers and keep the area well covered inside your cupboard. This stuff will stick to anything (including stainless steel sink bottoms).

Spray the foam insulation onto the sink surface. It has a wand to spray into small areas, just make lines about 2 inches apart as you spray (more like caulking). You will seet the foam expand. Run another line of foam between the ones you made if you think it is not covering (expanding) well enough. Let it expand and harden for a day.

Part 2)
Here you want to prevent any air from getting under your sink. If you can limit any condensation to the air that is under the sink, you wont get too much water. If you allow air to circulate, then all the air passing by will deposit some dew onto your sink bottom.

Get some foam insulation strips like you want to insulate a window or door. The best option would be Frost King (EDPM) extruded profiles. Thes strips come in 3/16" and compress easily as your cabinet door closes. You might want to put spring hinges on the doors or a spring latch to keep it tightly closed.
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Good luck and try to stay clean. You might want to practice on a board outside if you haven't worked with spray foam insulation before - be careful, it drips and runs a bit before it hardens so keep your lines thin as you spray..


The g

It's entry level with regard to efficiency. At the same time, it's not a bad piece of equipment. Made by Carrier ICP. I've installed many of these. I suspect since you had your house foamed, it's probably not costing you a heck of alot to heat or cool- so it would be hard to justify changing it just to add seer points. It would be difficult to get a pay-back on your investment. I say roll with it and enjoy your new home!

Hooking up the foaming device simply blows foam into the job. Here is a shortcut which I find more convenient on my G4 tools. If you have the rotary upholstery shampoo kit, you can just attach the rotary tool to your hose. Then mix your kirby suds into a household spray mist bottle. If you happen to have a mist bottle with a screen on the intake straw it will foam your suds not quite as well as the kirby device, but this way you can store the suds in the spray bottle for future quick use.
kirby suds are designed to be used as foam not liquid so a foamer in the spray bottle helps the process. You do not want to soak the furniture, just apply a light mist and scrub with the air driven shampoo tool on the hose. Then allow to dry and vacuum 24 hours later.

Headliner you mean? Do it yourself. You can buy the thin foam underpad, & spray adhesive on it, then material chosen from a fabric shop. Scrape old stuff off good, spray adhesive on cardboard like headliner, apply foam, then spray foam good, and apply fabric, let it cure overnight, wrap material around to back side, and put back in place. Follow directions on adhesive, and make sure it's o.k. (compatible) on foam & material.

Check to see if the straw is present and attached correctly inside the jar.