It's totally depending on where you live and the part of your home. you're (walls, crawlspace, attic, etc.).
I think you need to contact the experts in this field. I contacted the professionals on the site https://insulationwholesale.co.uk/insulation/floor-insulation/, when I needed floor insulation. By the way, I was able to purchase all the necessary material for insulation on this site. So, if you have any questions, I recommend that you follow the link and read the detailed information on the subject.
I think it's better to consult with builders you gonna hire. They know things and can choose the type for your needs specifically
It seems to me that a reliable source would be this site from the Department of Energy. You just enter your zip code along with some other info and it provides recommendations for your building:
http://web.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html
Hi Nikki, I have seem to have the same problem although its usually around the holidays, If you have purchased heavy duty/outdoor rated extension cords either the orange or yellow mostly then you should not have a problem hiding them under a throw rug or carpeting, they have a high insulation rating and thickness to help safe guard heat build up. However if you are using the regular run of the mill convenient store type extension cords (the white or brown thin ones with doublesided receptacles) I would not hide them under any kind of material like a rug or carpeting, these type of extension cords can build up heat if left plugged in for extended periods of time and due to thin insulation and low amp ratings the can become quite hot to the touch, one short could cause a spark that could posssibly start an electrical fire so beware, another solution is to bundle a few wires together with zip-ties/plastic cord wraps and run them along a wall up against a base board so there out of the way and not so visible. A trip to your local hardware store should help you out.
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I agree with going to the Dept. Of Energy for help with your selections and options. Fiberglas batt has always been my favorite though. It comes in different "R" (Resistance) values as needed. In a new installation with open walls, it can be rolled out and laid in easily between the studs in your walls. Most walls are constructed with 2 x 4 inch studs which actually only measure one and one half inch by three and one half inches. Wall insulation is supplied to fit the dimensions of the construction of your wall. Also, the distance between the studs can vary from 14 - 16 -18 - 20 - 22 - and 24 inches. The closer together they are, the better the installation is. (And more expensive due to the extra number of studs needed). Fiberglass also comes with a brown paper backing which provides a good vapor barrier and one and one half inch overhang from the fiberglass to make it easier to staple or tack to the studs. For better "R" values for your walls, you can use Tivek (?) or thicker Styrofoam on the outside walls under your siding. When doing a great job of insulating your home, be mindful of ventilation to prevent mold from forming in a moist, warm location. There is a lot of things to cover concerning insulation that I am not qualified to give. But no matter what else you find to make your home better insulated, always ask about how the insulated areas will be vented and kept dry. I have seen many installations where proper venting was ignored and very bad results down the road. I hope this helps a little. Good luck on a large project. Roger
Hi Paul. Its Roger again. I missed 1 VERY important point in insulating your new home. Doors and windows. A door normally comes with its well fitting frame and seals and that's great. But the door frame is fitted into a space made up of 2 x 4 s by the carpenter and is intentionally made a little larger than the door frame so the the door frame can be squared up to insure the door closes and seals properly. Shims are used to accomplish all this and the space between the door frame and the 2 x 4 frame made to install it in, is almost never insulated. When the tyvek (spelling (?)) is cut to fit the door frame, the seam there is never sealed either. That leaves just the siding on the outside of the house and the drywall or sheet rock on the inside of the house for insulation. The same is true of windows. I'm over 35 years out from my classes in Residential Construction, but these small details were a high point with my instructor. Your contractor won't be happy about you wanting these details to be properly attended to but if these areas are ignored, you will easily be able to feel the cold all around your windows and doors on a cold day. Insulating all those details will make a worthwhile difference in your heating and cooling costs. Attic insulation should be heavy. Just be careful not to block the air space above the eaves, going into the attic. That's where the roof joins the wall. There will be vents in the eaves outside and in the roof. The air space between them needs to be kept clear to properly vent your walls and attic. Once again, Good luck and let me know if I can be of help on anything else. I think you will get my posts now. Stay in touch Paul. I'll help all I can. Roger
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