Sounds like a control board issue
SOURCE: kenmore front load washer wont drain gives F2 error
There is an awesome guy on fixya with this:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r622155-kenmoreelitewhirlpoolduetdoorjammed
http://www.fixya.com/support/r615354-fherrorcodewhirlpoolduetkenmore
SOURCE: it wont do spin cycle or drain
Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, I would recommend you check your lid switch first. Due to the amount of wear it is the most common cause of these symptoms and least expensive to repair. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.
NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
If parts are needed, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.
This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: The problem is that my clothes are coming out wet
pump is not pumping out the water fast enough you may have trash and lint clogging the proper flow in your water pump
SOURCE: while filling for spin cycle machine is draining at same time
If you suspect you have a defective Water Inlet valve (also known as a FILL valve or MIXING valve) it can easily be diagnosed by performing the following steps:
- First, make sure the water taps are turned on all the way, and the fill hoses are not kinked in anyway. If everything checks okay, proceed to the next step.
- Now, turn the water taps off, disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer and place them in the wash tub. Turn the taps back on and make sure you have proper and forceful water flow (minimum water pressure should be 10-25PSI).
- Check the sediment screens on the Water Inlet valve on the back of the washer. Sometimes these screens will clog with rust or sediment and prevent water flow. Cleaning with some distilled vinegar works well.
If you’ve attempted all the steps above, but still have no luck, more than likely the inlet valve is bad and requires replacement. Please, read all instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a simple repair that any “Do-It-Yourselfer” can accomplish. Follow the steps provided:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
7. The inlet valve is located on the back panel with two or more sets of electrical connectors attached to it. The connectors are usually color-coded to indicate which valve is HOT and which valve is COLD (In the case of a Mixing Valve, you may have additional electrical connectors). Remove the connectors and check the contacts for corrosion. Sometimes a good cleaning can restore a valve solenoid to working order. (You may want to label the connectors, if necessary, to ensure you know how they go back on).
8. Disconnect the small rubber water hose(s) attached to valve with a pair of pliers to release the hose clamps. Inspect the hose(s) for any evidence of cracking.
9. With the water hose(s) removed, loosen the mounting screw(s) and the inlet valve comes off.
10. Re-install new inlet valve following these steps in reverse order. Pay careful attention to make sure you correctly connect the HOT & COLD electrical connections (RED is usually the HOT water side). Make sure all hoses are fitted back in place and the hose clamps are snug.
11. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
12. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
13. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
14. Reinstall console.
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SOURCE: Machine stops in Rinse & Spin Cycle & leaks water
1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.
2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.
3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.
WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.
4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.
There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.
5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.
WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.
Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.
6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.
If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.
Replace any valves that are cracked.
Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.
If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.
Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.
The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.
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