Mains lead replacement - Russell Hobbs 15081 Steamglide Iron In White And Blue, 2400 W

Get a multimeter. Check that the fuse is OK. If it is ok, open the cover at the back of the iron. Plug in the iron. Be careful not to get electrocuted. Check that the cables from the socket on the wall have power. place the leads of the multimeter on the live and neutral and check for 240V or 110v depending on your country. If no power here cable could have a problem.
If there is power here, turn of power and unplug socket. open top cover, you will see the heating element. Check for continuity between the ends of the element, If no continuity the element is dead and you need to buy a new iron. If it has continuity then check continuity of other components connected in series with the element. Some models a limit thermostat to prevent the iron from over heating. This looks like a small resistor about one centimeter long, if it has no continuity, cut it off and bypass it. It is a safety device that fails when it senses high temperatures in case the main control thermostat fails. If you can find a replacement replace it, if you cant find a replacement, you can use it and hope the main thermostat does not fail.

Possible that the lead wire, the mains plug, the thermal switch of the heating element is faulty.Unless all these are checked one by one , the fault cannot be confirmed.

If shaking it does anything, you should not use it. It clearly has an internal problem that could lead to shock or a fire. Even if you are not under warranty, most manufacturers will replace a unit with a serious fault that can lead to liability. You should contact the manufacturer directly. They will be very helpful.

Perhaps you simply have too many power consuming items on that one circuit.

it is betterr to get a sealed power plug with the nylon insulation for the iron with a 15 amps rating wire and plug.
open the unit and disconnect the wire of the damaged plug, remove and replace with the new one taking care to connect each of the wires to the correct position. The lead , neutral and the ground must be double checked before you switch on.

Like most consumer whitegoods nowadays, the cover is 'protected' by 'tamper-proof' or security bits screws that take may forms: you can get the a set of screw driver security bits at most hardware or electronic shops.
The power cord to your iron has one or more electrical lead that has just about broken off due to fatigue failure: it is a dangerous situation because of potential arcing so I would get it fixed it as soon as possible by a 'qualified' person: that said, there are only three wires to your iron and once you get the back cover off, you can easily find out where ths break is by just pulling hard on each wires. The break would normally be fairly close so you have the option of shortening the lead (which must otherwise also be in good condition ) to where the longest break is and rewiring the leads back in exactly the same screw terminals on the iron.
Please remeber that you are dealing with a potentially dangerous main voltage appliance and extreme care is required.

Hope it helps.

The Dual Kilowatt Switch MUST be set to the proper kilowatt rating in accordance and Connect incoming power to floating black pigtail leads labeled "L1" and "L2. keep updated,

check the plug and make sure all connections are secure
check/replace the lead
or finally replace the element
i hope this helps in some way

Same issue i believe
with metal part laying flat (ironing position) and looking at bottom side, from the left to the right - white & blue leads, lamp(resistor lead), red then both black leads and other end of lamp.
im guessing the themal fuse is the lamp? what is the PN where can i get it.

i had a small shere fall out of the unit, besides the positioning switch where else would this be located?
Thanks

Do you use any additive to the water when you iron?
Do you empty the water out after use ?
Brown steam / water suggests foul water, or rust due to dirty water pipes on Iron.

With regards to 'not working' - do you have any lights on, or is it dead.
(I had one of these, the mains lead within the flex holder had broken - design flaw) - managed to repair.