Two lights and outlet using two cable wire - Home Fencing

Your description doesn't explain the circuit, the function of the wires or how the switch controls the outlet and whether the switch is a single pole or two-pole switch. Without such details it is difficult to visualise the circuit.

I advise before you go further to test the sensor in a known good and correctly wired outlet using a length of cable and a suitable plug for the outlet. It is possible the unit is faulty. If it functions correctly on test you will need to understand the circuit and the function of the wires before you rewire it to assure success.

This is an indication of a failed connection. Somewhere. Since you probably do not know how the affected circuit was run, it's going to take some time - but it's not difficult work. But before we roll up our sleeves - first locate and RESET any Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) type outlet. If any fail to reset - replace it with another GFI outlet with the same electrical rating. Pay attention to which cables and wires that are connected LINE and LOAD terminals wires when removing and replacing! Don't forget to check outlets on the outside of the 5th wheel.

Circuits fail almost always at connections. Wires and cables in walls don't just "break" in the middle. We need to check connections in the bad circuit. First, plug lights in all the outlets. Turn the circuit breaker for the bad circuit from ON to OFF. Note which lights shut off. With the break OFF, check the outlets that WORKED.

We're looking for the point that power entered the outlet box, but due to a failed connection is unable to leave it and feed the first failed outlet. Check and tighten all screw terminals and wirenuts. Check both hot and neutral wires. Make sure no wires are loose, pull out or are burned (cut and strip back these wires and reconnect / wirenut). Try to power the circuit to see if you found the problem after each check - if not - repeat at the next outlet that worked until you find the problem. If you are still unable to get it working after checking the working outlets, repeat the process on each of the non-working outlets. If still unable to get it working, check ceiling fixtures as it is not uncommon to wire to the light fixture first and then feed down to outlets.

Yes.
The code is maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.
You can connect a 12-2 NM W/G cable to one of the outlets. Black-to-black and white-to-white and ground-to-ground. Black is hot, white is neutral, and ground is ground. And bring that cable into a hollow-wall box you install 50" high on the wall. Then run the 12-2 cable up to your light fixture.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15312-single-a-300.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

You can also replace one of the outlets with a combo switch-outlet. The run singe 12-2 cable up to light.
This wiring diagram shows half way down how-to-wire-switches page.
Outlets have wide blade on neutral side, and narrow blade on hot side.
The black hot wires from old outlet connect to side of combo device with narrow blade.
The white neutrals from old outlet, and new wire going to switch, all connect to silver screw on wide-blade side of new combo device.
The black wire going to new light connects to screw next to switch located on wide-blade side of device.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hi Don,

Shut the power off.

Inspect the switch.

If the switch has two cables (2 black & 2 white wires) which would indicate that power enters the switch on one cable and supplies the light through the switch on the other cable, you can supply a new outlet so that it can be on all the time or controlled by the switch. Either way, you'll need to run a 14/2 cable from the new outlet to the existing switch box. Connect the bare ground wire to all the other bare ground wires by adding it to the bundle in a wirenut; and connect the white wire (neutral) to the other two whites under a wirenut.

Power back on.

Using a meter or tester; carefully determine which of the black wires on the switch is "on" all time and which is turned "on and off" by the switch. Indicate which is which on the wire with tape, or other marker.

Power off.

Remove the wire you want to supply the outlet.

Cut a short (8" or so) length of insulated (black, red or blue in color) #14 copper wire & strip 3/4" off each end. Combine one end of this short wire, the original switch wire, and the black from new 14/2 cable together under a wirenut..

Connect the other end of the short black wire to the switch and put everything back together again.

Power back on.

The outlet will either be on all the time - or turn on and off by the position of the switch. You're done!

I hope this helps - if it was not the answer you were expecting, please describe how you want the switch, light & new outlet to work in greater detail.

If it worked before, it should be a wire to wire replacement. You are replacing a regular switch/outlet with another switch/outlet which just happens to be a GFI outlet.
Wire the old switch wires to the new switch and the old outlet wires to the new outlet.
Cut the breaker/s off first !!

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/lights-400.jpg
The link above shows basic wiring plan for adding a switch
The switch always turns the Hot wire on-and-off.
When selecting wire size, use same size that connects to plug
So if plug has a yellow-sheathed cable, then use #12 wire
If plug has white sheathed cable, use #14 wire
#14 is smaller wire than #12

http://waterheatertimer.org/RomexC.html
The link above shows how to install wires in octagon box
Your light fixture always attaches to octagon box.
Octagon box can be round, it can be made of plastic.
The box can be nailed to any surface.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html
The link above shows how to add a switch box in existing wall
They also sell octagon boxes that insert into existing wall or ceiling.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html
The link above shows some basic electrical techniques and
links to wire nuts and wire size

Run a cable from the plug to the switch box with two wires and a ground. Connect the black wire to the black side of the outlet and the white wire to the white side of the outlet. Ground to ground. In the switch box connect the black wire to one side of the switch and the white wire goes directly to the white wire of the cable going to the first light. The black wire connects to the other side of the switch.(either side). Then the cable from the switch goes from light to light connecting one light to the next, maintaining black to black, white to white connections.

Ok - you have to figure out which two wires are supplying the power. Then which wires go to the outlet. Then the last wires should go to the light. Connect all the white wires together. then the black from the power cable goes to the black of the outlet. Add a short wire to the black group and put it to one side of the switch. put the black wire from the light cable to the other side of the switch.

Red wire is the live wire, black wire is the dead wire, white wire is the earth wire.
Now its the black and the red wire we are to play with. take a two wire cable, let the wires be red and black in the new cable, connect the red and the black cables of the new cable to the corresponding red and black wires of the old cable i.e. the new cable is to be connected parallel to the old cable(the connections can be made by ripping the old cable from any point) now connect a switch to the other end of the red wire. attach the terminal of the bulb to:
1) the the other terminal of the switch
2) the other end of the black wire

i am attaching a picture for your assistance.

Make sure you turn off the power at the power panel.
If you are lucky you will find the following in the electrical box behind the light:

1. A black wire that brings power from the fuse/breaker panel--connected directly to one or two other (black) wires (not to the light).
2. A white wire from the panel--connected to one or more white wires including one to the light.
3. A black or white (maybe taped black) wire that comes from the switch and is connected to the light.
4. A green or bare wire connected to the box and maybe also to the light.

If this is the case then you can run a new cable to a new electrical box in the wall for the GFI. Connect the new black wire to the Line In terminal/black wire of the GFI outlet and to the group of black wires in (1) above. Connect the new white wire to the Neutral terminal/white wire of the GFI outlet and to the group of white wires in (2) above. Connect the new green/bare wire to the Ground terminal/green wire of the GFI outlet and to the original box or ground wire. If there is a Load/Feed through wire on the GFI outlet, tape the end of it and do not use.
If the black and white wires described in (1) and (2) above do not appear in the electrical box at the light then they are probably in the switch box and there will be only one black wire and one white wire that connect to the light on the wall. In that case you will need to run a new cable from the switch box to the new outlet. You will not be able to wire the new outlet from the existing electrical box at the light unless you do it through the switch and it will not be on unless the switch is on.