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Posted on Apr 19, 2009
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Fender 100w twin amp no sound

I have a 100w fender twin amp ,it turns on but no sound . tubes look fine , two lights in the back of the amp go on (v9 & v11 trouble) & (v10 &v12 trouble) . Before the volume on the amp would drop on & off . ?????

  • 1 more comment 
  • aaronphipps Apr 24, 2009

    My amp was doing the same thing, the sound would drop on and off. then the sound wouldnt come through, now it doesnt even turn on. not sure what the problem is.

  • Anonymous Apr 27, 2017

    Many newer Fender (reissue) amps have poor solder joints. First, be sure your "Standby" switch is good. Then, have a skilled technician resolder every connection they can get to, especially the ones in the power supply.

  • Chris Taylor Mar 16, 2019

    Replace output valves and set up the bias

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  • Expert 192 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009
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Here is a test you can do at home for the sound. Test out the speaker. To do this you will need two alligator clips with wire about ft. long. Remove the speaker wire clips under the speaker magnet and attach the alligator clips . Take a C size battery and touch both ends of the battery. You should here a scratching sound . If you do you know your speaker is OK. Then you have a problem that needs a Technician. A good music shop should be able to give you a idea of the repair cost. Don't go to a big music change, find a small full service shop that deals with Fender. I don't think this will cost a lot. Fenders play for years, Its truly worth the bench fee. Good luck DFD , please rate me thanks

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  • Posted on Sep 27, 2019
Doug Caskenette
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Check the fuses ,there should be a fuse for the power switch

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Very loud cracking when turning on standby switch

Do some quick tests to locate the fault area....
i) With all gain controls at minimum & amp warmed up, turn on the standby switch & observe the large output valves for sparking or flashing (could be breakdown in one of them).
ii) Remove V6 (12AT7). Is the crackling still there? If so, the fault is in the final output stage (four 6L6GT's).
iii) To test the output stage, keep V6 removed & remove V7 & V9. If the fault clears then one of those 6L6's is likely to be faulty.
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v) If the fault still doesn't clear, then desolder coupling capacitors C22,C23 - which may be leaky.

I suspect the fault is the output stage valves, in which case it's best to buy a matched set of 4 & re-bias.

No valve tester is needed here!
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FENDER CYBER TWIN AMP SOUNDS GREAT WORKS GREAT BUT WHEN YOU CRANK THE VOLUME A LITTLE LOUDER THAN NORMAL THE AMP GET STATIC OR DISTORTS OR POPS AND CRACKS. COULD THE TUBES DO THIS?

First make sure you have the TRIM knob positioned correctly. When playing loud the Red Led should just blink a bit so you know you're not overloading the preamp and Digital sections. The Twin Reverb Patch is a clean place to start so select that first. On this amp it's a good idea to set the MASTER to 5 and use the VOLUME control at as low a setting as you can. The GAIN control should be set under 4. You better sound crystal clear on this setting. Try turning up the volume to see how loud you can get without breaking up. It's a guitar amp so there will be some grainy distortion but it should be very light. I bet you get through this test without much trouble. After that you need to be very careful about what settings you're using since many of the presets may not mesh with your guitar pickups. You should concentrate on tweaking one highgain setting and learn about how the controls interact. The amp is so much more complicated than a 10 knob standard guitar amp. Most people need to put in some time to get a handle on it.

As far as the tubes go, typically they can get microphonic which was a problem with versions 1.1 and 1.0 of this amp so check that. Fender had a Cyber twin upgrade kit way back to fix this but if you have version 1.2 or 1.3 that's not it. Problems with this amp are typically caused by control setting more often than an electronic problem but this reponse should get you started figuring it out.
MYREL
Jul 13, 2009 • Music
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