Spinning problem Washer agitates OK, but when it goes to spin the tub doesn't spin. Can hear/feel motor running. Lift and close the lid and then the clutch engages and tub starts spinning.

There are a few potential causes for your Roper washer not spinning or draining:

1. Drive belt: If the drive belt is broken or slipping, it could prevent the tub from spinning. Check the belt for any signs of damage or wear, and make sure it is properly tensioned.
2. Lid switch: Even though you said the lid switch is ok, it's still worth checking it again as it is responsible for ensuring that the washer will not spin or drain unless the lid is closed.
3. Motor coupler: The motor coupler connects the motor to the transmission and can wear out over time. If it has failed, the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the coupler for any signs of wear or damage.
4. Drain pump: A clogged drain pump or pump motor failure can prevent the washer from draining. Check the pump and clean out any debris that may be blocking it.
5. Control board: The control board could also be a potential culprit, especially if the washer is not completing cycles correctly. Check the board for any signs of damage or malfunction.
6. Transmission: If none of the above solutions work, there may be an issue with the transmission. This will require a professional repair.

I hope this helps you diagnose and fix the issue with your Roper washer.

If it is a top load washer I would check the lid switch, you should hear a click everytime you close the lid. If that is ok, there is a coupler between the motor and transmission, if it is a whirlpool, maytag, estate, admiral or kenmore.

There is a bad spot in the timer when this is happening!!! It may work sometimes but when It gets to that spot, it won't, until you lift the lid and close it back down!!! Replace the timer!!!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/charles_c2f37a3461344482

Top-loading washing machine has an outer tub that fills with water and sits stationary as well as an inner tub with holes in it. The inner tub has an agitator that attaches to the drive shaft. A drive belt turns the drive shaft, causing the agitator to move back and forth. Broken seals at the bottom of the agitator, or a broken belt, may cause the agitator to perform inefficiently and leave your clothes dirty

In order to properly wash clothes and prepare them for drying, a washer must agitate or spin the load. This helps wring excess water out of the clothing. If your washer has suddenly stopped spinning properly, you will notice that your clothes will be sopping wet when the washer is done. Typically, there is a simple reason for this problem that you can fix without calling in a professiona

1 Check the lid switch. You will notice on the lip of the lid there is a small stem that hangs down. This fits into a hole on the top of the washer housing and tells the washer the lid is closed and it is safe to spin the load. If the switch is faulty or has been blocked, the washer will not agitate or spin.

2 Clean out the switch receptacle. Use a multipurpose cleaner and a sponge (not a paper towel, it can shred and get caught in the switch receptacle.) Thoroughly clean the area around the switch and the receptacle.

3 Test the washer. Close the lid, allow the washer to fill with an inch of water, and move the selector to the spin cycle. Pull out on the selector. If it does not spin, stop the cycle (push the selector in) and turn the washing machine off. This means there could be three problems with the washer: the switch might be broken, something might be caught in the agitator, or the motor for the agitator may be burned out.

4 Check underneath the agitator. Small items such as underwear, panty hose or bra straps can become caught underneath the agitator and keep it from moving. Run your hand underneath this area and see if you feel anything. If you do, unwrap the item and test the washer again. If it still does not work, move to Step 5.

5 Contact a repair person. If the washer still will not agitate or spin, it will need to either have the switch replaced or the motor replaced. Contact a certified appliance repair person to have the machine inspected. If it is still under warranty, the repair person's visit should be covered.

However if its only the agitator arm, then

Instructions to Remove/replace the Agitator

1 Unplug the washer.

2 Slide a putty knife under each side of the washing machine top to release the springs holding the top in place. Lift up the top on its hinges.

3 Pull the tub clips from the inner tub using a pair of pliers.

4 Pull up on the agitator top to expose the nut holding it in place. Remove the nut using a socket wrench. Lift up on the agitator to remove it from the machine.

5 Turn the agitator upside down and remove the seals from the bottom. Replace them with a new set of seals. If the agitator is cracked, replace it.

6 Reassemble the washer.

Removing the Belt

7 Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.

8 Pull out on the bottom panel on the front of the machine. Look underneath to locate the drive belt.

9 Pull on the drive belt at the washer tub to remove it. Push down on the idler pulley near the motor to remove the belt from the machine. Route the new belt around the pulleys in the same way as before.

10 Reassemble the machine, plug it in and test.

If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely -if it's frozen or stiff- replace it.

a.- It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
a.1. If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
a.2. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


b.- It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
b.1. The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
b.2 The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
b.3 A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
b.4 The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
b.5 The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
b.6 The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
b.7 The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

c.- It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up

Additional details in Admiral: Washer Use and Care Guide (PDF Format)

Check it and keep us updated.

Hello there and welcome to fixya
there are several things that you will need to check first ok please verrify the following
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

When you lift the lid, did the motor stop? Do you know if it agitates? If the motor runs and there is no agitaion or spin, check the coupler connecting the motor and transmission. If it agitates and does not spin, it could be a basket drive assembly. The lid switch can also affext the spin cycle. Many reasons why it won't spin. These are just ideas to look into.

Vic

If you mean that when the unit should be agitating or spinning the motor is running, and you lift the lid causing the motor to stop running, it sounds like the coupler.

Timer is defective. Your unit has a netural drain. When finished agitating, the shuts down and then starts up reversing to drain and spin. On the initial reverse start, the water drains without the transmission spinning. After a timed period 3-4 minutes, the timer is supposed to pause, stopping the motor for a few seconds. When the motor stops again, the transmission shift to the spin cycle and when the timer resumes power tothe motor it should spin. You are doing the same thing when you lift the lid...stopping the timer and then the tranny shifts and when you set the lid down, the washer spins. Replace the timer.......

When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.



• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.