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Whirlpool gas range It seems to turn on, warm up, but then over time, it doesn't maintain that temperature. Things are taking longer to cook. I'm thinking the Igniter isn't always kicking on, perhaps? Or, could it be the Sensor that's giving incorrect temp info to the controls?
Clarification: I have recently heard the tick, tick tick of the igniter - followed by the oven NOT lighting & smelling a small gas smell when I stuck my head in the oven. I took the bottom panel off & blew out the igniter & it then started every time I cycled it on & off. However, it again seemed to take longer to cook stuff (& I don't think it held temp) Does that change anything? Still think the sensor?Clarification: I have recently heard the tick, tick tick of the igniter - followed by the oven NOT lighting & smelling a small gas smell when I stuck my head in the oven. I took the bottom panel off & blew out the igniter & it then started every time I cycled it on & off. However, it again seemed to take longer to cook stuff (& I don't think it held temp) Does that change anything? Still think the sensor?
I vote for the oven sensor. Usually a gas charged bulb which leads up the the oven control. The gas sometimes leaks out over time.I vote for the oven sensor. Usually a gas charged bulb which leads up the the oven control. The gas sometimes leaks out over time.
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I believe you need to replace the direct spark ignition module, but refer to the note below.
Direct spark ignition module. NOTE: This part is often misdiagnosed. Use the wiring diagram and check for an open circuit through the gas valve. Also inspect the igniter and burner tube.
If there is a failure re-lighting the oven it will cool down, but should not turn off. If the oven shuts off and you have to restart the oven controls you will need the main control board.
That pretty much sounds like a weak igniter thats causing your troubles, while the igniter first comes on to preheat the oven its seems to be ok,yet once it has been on for a while the igniter is getting weak and not allowing the gas to flow properly once its hot. By replacing the igniter the oven will maintain tempature.
I would be interested to know just how long it is that the oven does stay lit. All ovens, gas and electric, cycle off and on throughout a baking cycle, to maintain the proper temp. If the flames or the power to the element were to stay on at full power for the life of the food's required time in the oven it would most likely wind up charred. The temp would simply continue to rise, up and up and up. If that's what it appears to be doing, then it's just working normally. If it goes out completely and stays off, doesn't come back on in a few minutes, then it may be in a keep warm mode. Many ranges have a TIMED BAKE cycle available, so you can set the clock to start the oven at such and such a time, cook the food and then shut off. Once it's finished with the cooking cycle, it goes into a keep warm mode, where it will come on for a short time and then go off, to maintain about 180 degrees. Not hot enough to really cook anything anymore, but hot enough to keep it warm for you when you get ready to eat. If this seems to be the way it's acting, then look for the timed bake function on the console and set things back to a manual mode.
Yup...I believe this may have been an issue with some GE models. I seem to remember a problem where some models had problems staying lit after preheating. The fix was replacing the oven thermostat. Now...the normal cycle for an oven lighting is just what you described. The glow igniter will glow first, followed by the gas valve opening, followed by ignition. Once the oven reaches optimum temperature it is normal for the gas to shut off and come back on to maintain oven temperature. However, if this is going on in a frequent fashion with the oven never getting warm, your guess is probably a correct one. Good luck to you.
Clarification:
I have recently heard the tick, tick tick of the igniter - followed by the oven NOT lighting & smelling a small gas smell when I stuck my head in the oven. I took the bottom panel off & blew out the igniter & it then started every time I cycled it on & off. However, it again seemed to take longer to cook stuff (& I don't think it held temp)
Does that change anything? Still think the sensor?
I vote for the oven sensor. Usually a gas charged bulb which leads up the the oven control. The gas sometimes leaks out over time.
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